Bara Kaman, Vijayapura (Bijapur)

What would be your reaction when you hear a story where son was murdered by his own father? Horrified right? A father who couldn't digest the success of his son. The son we are talking about is Ali Adil Shah II of Adil Shahi empire of Bijapura. This blood and gore story is meatier than the Game of Thrones. In that nobody killed their children except for Stannis Baratheon. We would like to burst the bubble here. According to records Ali Adil Shah succeeded the throne in November 4, 1656 after the death of his father Mohammed Adil Shah from prolonged illness. And Ali's death was noted to be in November 24, 1672, probably 12 years after his father's death.

The story was narrated to us by the guard turned guide at the Bara Kaman. 

Bara Kaman is an incomplete mausoleum of Ali Adil Sha, his wife, and daughters. The idea was to built the Bara Kaman with 12 arches vertically and horizontally, hence the name. It is said once completed the the glorious structure's shadow would have fallen on the Gol Gumaz, dimming its eminence. Rumor has it that is what father didn't want his son to achieve.

At present the monument has only twelve arches placed horizontally and a few pillar, but no domes. Some say Malik Sandal is the architect of this unfinished structure who is said to be the designer of Ibrahim Rouza. However there are no documents to support the claim. The structure has elevated walls in coaxial arches. When arches were raised only the outermost arches stood the ground tumbling the inner arches. It is said iron rings were used to hold the stones together instead of cement.

Even though there is no historical evidence to support the above-mentioned story it is relegated to everyone nonetheless. We like to believe the story because well, we like stories. And also we had visited Saat Kabar just a day before. 

Info: Delhi sultanate wanted to annex Bijapur to his empire. To appease his notorious son Aurangazeb, Emperor Shah Jahan ordered the invasion. It was an unlawful move as Bijapur was not a vassal state of Mughals, but independent and equal ally of the Mughal empire. Ali battled relentlessly both Mughals and the Marathas all through his 16 years tenure. Ali is said to be the great patronages of Persian and Deccani literature and fine arts. 

So our theory for incomplete Bara Kaman could be financial restrain due to ongoing battles with Marathas and Mughals as well as fighting off the inner politics. We just imagined how majestic and beautiful the Bara Kaman would be if it was completed. Sitting there quietly we wondered what Ali's soul would react every time the intriguing story was told to onlookers? Is is true or not? Like a movie climax it is left to audiences' intelligence.

Our guide suggested that we should visit Shivagiri to get wonderful glimpse of Lord Shiva's statue at dusk.

Tips:

Best Time: July-February

Route: Bangalore-Tumkur-Chitradurga-Davangere-Haveri-Hubballi-Bagalkot-Vijayapura

Total Distance: 606 KM

Entry Fee: Free

Timings: 06:00 A.M.-06:00 P.M.

-Railway station linked to Bangalore, Hyderabad, and other major cities
-Bijapur is well connected with other cities by bus
-Though we would not advise you can club Bijapur with Badami (Agasthya Tirtha; Cave temple 1; Cave temple 2; Cave temple 3)-Aihole-Pattadakal if time is at premium
-Must see places in Vijayapura (Bijapur) apart from Gol Gumbaz and Ibrahim Rouza
-Local rickshaws are mode of transport, however, you need to negotiate the prices hard and smart before you could hire one as rickshaws have no meter

Honnemaradu (Golden Lake)

We have been toying with the idea of going to Honnemaradu for quite sometime. This winter opportunity presented itself when we were invited to a friend's wedding in Sagara. We have been told by the same friend to book well in advance if we wish to take coracle rides or participate in any water-based activities. However, many of Tarun's friends were meeting after a very long time and we already had different plans.

Honnemaradu is at a distance of 35 kilometers from Sagara on the way to Jog Falls. There are hardly any signs directing to Honnemaradu. We were accompanied by two other friends, among them one is local. At Hirimane village we took a diversion towards left. And from then onwards the bumpy, rough, and bone-shaking ride started. Once we reached the place we were asked to sign in a register with names and phone numbers by the caretaker lady. We were told Honnemaradu camp is handled by a group of members who called themselves Adventurers. As we walked through the muddy path we could hear birds chirping and crickets twittering. We were surrounded by the lush greenery, in fact, we were in midst of Western Ghats.

Info: Honnemaradu is a quaint village perched upon the hills in Western Ghats. It is located on the backwaters of Sharavathi river and faces the Linganamakki reservoir. The reservoir covers an area of 50 x 80 kms stretch. The literal meaning of Honnemaradu is Golden Lake (Honnu-Gold; Maradu-Lake) in Kannada. Another opinion is that it got its name from Honne tree (Indian Kino Tree/Malabar Kino) that are densely populated in Karnataka-Kerala region of Western Ghats. We would soon find out what could be the exact reason for this nomenclature. After satiating our photographic itch we found ourselves sitting and gazing endlessly at the sea of blue in perfect stillness. The cool winter breeze ruffled our hair, ebbing away the edginess. In those frozen minutes we could hear absolutely nothing.  It reminded us of Bhadra Bactwaters.

Honnemaradu is also known as birdwatchers paradise. To be in line with its fame we managed to spot one or two birds. We are not birdwatchers, so hardly we could identify any of two. The daylight started dwindling and we had to don our hat of photographers once again. In the golden hour the setting sun was illuminating the lake in golden hue. It looked like we had taken quite sometime there. The caretaker lady came searching for us. She told some people wander off swimming and swimming is strictly prohibited here. We assured her we are not doing anything of that sort. And decided to head back before the night falls as we had to meet people gathered for the wedding.

Tips:

Route: Bangalore-Tumkur-Tiptur-Kadur-Bhadravati-Shivamogga-Sagara-Honnemaradu

Total Distance: 460 KM

Train: Mysore-Bangalore-Shimoga-Sagara-Talaguppa
Taxis plies from Talaguppa to Honnemaradu
-Reservation needed for overnight stay, with facilities for food, shelter, and equipment rentals
-Sagara is best place to stay if you want to club it with Keladi and Ikkeri or Sigandoor
-Best Season: October-March