Saturday 27 June 2020

Mullayanagiri, Chikmagalur

On our way back from Baba Budan giri, we saw construction work going on in Kaimara. This Y-shaped intersection also leads to the way to Mullayanagiri. We had no intention to club Baba Budan giri and Mullayanagiri on the same day. The sunrise at Mullayanagiri is very famed and we kept that for our last leg of the trip. The road was closed due to the ongoing work. We wanted to know whether the road is closed completely for time being or will they allow travelers to pass by at a stipulated time. When asked they informed us that the road will be open from morning 6 to 10.

Since our plan was to witness the glorious sunrise at the peak, we were at Kaimara around 5:45 and they were allowing vehicles to move along. It is about 8 kilometers from Kaimara. The road was narrow and rocky with steep valleys on one side and jagged mountains on the other. Visibility was bare minimum at the crack of dawn. Who says it is peak summer when the mist is covering the entire terrain? Even so the path winds ahead smoothly and we were at the parking lot in no time.






The weather was cold enough, but not harsh to make us shiver. We thought we were the first few to arrive. To our utter surprise there was a huge crowd scattered all over the place from parking lot to the pathway to the peak. Collecting our gazettes we started hiking the well-paved stony steps. In the beginning the walk was easy so was our energy level. We halted in between to look around the beautiful mountains and valleys and click few pictures. 

We could see people trekking from Sarpadhari, which was the original route to the summit. If you are into mountain trekking that would be the track for you. Perspiration started after few steps. Blowing cool wind was the only balm to our ordeal. In fact we had to sit on a rock for sometime to regain the stamina. And that would be the place where we lost our selfie-stick without realizing until we had to use it. We could see few kids counting the steps as they move ahead. 





We reached the point huffing and puffing on time for the rising sun. The horizon was filled with shades of peach and orange. It was bright and mesmerizing as sunrise should be. A river at far shone in gold and silver. Could it be Hirekolale lake? 

Standing atop the highest peak in Karnataka at a height of 1930 meters (6330 feet) from sea level is a heady feeling. This hill is part of Chandra Dhrona Hill ranges of Western Ghats. Mountains and valleys loomed before us with a cloak of greenery. They were present in every which way we looked. We perched upon a rock as the easy breeze picked up. Even though people were shouting and screaming, all we could feel was absolute stillness. As the warmth of sunshine increased we started our downward journey to have sumptuous breakfast with large dose of filter coffee.   








Tips:

Best Season: October-May

Best Time: Early morning

Route: Chikmagalur-Kaimara-Mullayanagiri Peak

Attire: Warm clothes as temperature is cold even in peak summer and comfortable footwear  

Parking Four Wheeler Fee-20 INR   

Sunday 14 June 2020

Ayyanakere Lake, Sakharayapatna


Most Kannadigas would have heard the folk song "Mayadanta Male Bantanna Madagada Kerege". That is what we were discussing on our way to Ayyanakere Lake in Sakharayapatna. There is this lake called Madagada Kere, which one of us had visited a long time ago. The relevance here being the very Ayyanakere is called Dodda Madagada Kere and both these lakes were at a distance of 8 kilometres from each other.

Famed as the second largest lake in Karnataka, the Ayyanakere Lake is at a distance of 29 kilometres from Chikmagaluru towards Kadur. On our way we did a quick search to find out which one is the first largest and it is 'Shanti Sagara in Sulekere of Channagiri Taluk.

Ayyanakere lake is the primary source of water for agriculture to the nearby villages. Having ten canals to supply water it covers an area of 21560 hectares for irrigation. The major cultivation is coconut, arecanut, and sugarcane. The village name is Sakharayapatna (Sugar-Sakkare in Kannada) and sugarcane fields were aplenty. So, we easily assumed it to be Sakrayapatna (town of sugar). Our assumption was wrong. Later we were told the town is named after "Sakharaya", a local chieftain. 







The countryside stretched before us in green patch. Occasionally we would see few houses, animals, and villagers. Since we had our destination mapped in GPS we did not have to ask anybody for direction, but we knew people will be more than willing to help from our past experiences.

History: It is said the lake was built by chieftain of Sakharayapatna, Rukmangada Raya and later in 1156 restored under the tutelage of Narasimha I of Hoysala dynasty.

Legend: Legend has it that the lake was guarded by two cowherds, Honna Billa and Channa Bill. During such patrolling on one full moonlight, lake goddess emerged from the water and told them that the lake will deluge. If that happens the entire village will be submerged causing total chaos and destruction. The herders made a pact with the goddess to delay the process, so that they can alert the villagers of the impending doom, help them evacuate the village, and will return with the news. Goddess promised them to halt the breach until their return. Rather than informing the villagers and returning, they killed themselves as a sacrifice, hence keeping the goddess waiting eternally and saving the lives of many. Now a mantapa stands as a tribute to these two men. How we love these folklores.

Another lore says the ever breaching lake stopped doing so when people started following the rituals suggested by a saint named, Nirvanaswamay.






The reservoir is situated in the eastern base of Bababudan Giri. When we approached the lake shimmered silver in the bright evening sun. It provided a perfect mirror for the funnel-shaped Shakunagiri hillock and others. It is said Shakungairi is at a height of 4600 feet from sea level. The cool breeze ran over the unrippled surface as we relaxed on the stone benches. We could hear faint bird songs from the surrounding, though unable to locate one. We smiled at few teenagers who looked disappointed at their parents for not clicking instaworthy photos. Some kids were trying to create the perfect ripples by throwing stones. We could see everyone enjoying the evening as it passed by. For us a deep sense of serenity overcame to the radiant glow of setting sun. We could simply hear and feel Master Shifu's "inner peace" here.





As light started failing we decided to head out to call it a day. All in all early mornings and evenings can be spent on this beautiful lake.

Entry: Free
Transport: No public transport. Drive your own vehicle or hire a taxi from Chikmagaluru 
Best Season: Throughout year
Best Time: Be there for sunrise or sunset
Facilities: No toilets. No shops or hotels. Carry your own food
Activities: Fishing, bird watching, picnic