Sunday 25 October 2020

Ibrahim Rouza, Vijayapura (Bijapura)

"Whether a Turk (Muslim) or a Brahmin with different language—emotion is the same."-Ibrahim Adil Shah II

This is the tomb that had inspired the distinguished Taj Mahal, Agra. Though we had written two articles about Saat Kabar and Bara Kaman, Ibrahim Rouza was the first monument we had visited in Vijayapura (Bijapura). We were there around 4 o'clock, the sun had lost its brightness as well as the heat of the day. What we saw when we entered the complex were two identical-looking tomb-like structures with a minaret in between. Through the tiny door of minaret we were elevated to a terrace. 







The building on our left (east) is the tomb. Ibrahim Adil Shah II, his queen Taj Sultana, his mother Haji Badi Sahiba, his daughter and two sons were buried in the central chamber. The arched veranda has array of pillars creating a double gallery around the main chamber. The outer walls and windows were heavily inscribed in Arabic/Persian calligraphy. The masonry of the roof was joggle-jointed, which meant that the ceiling appeared to float without any apparent support. There was a vibrant dolly-like object with 786 written on it. It is belief that this number illustrates the total numerological value of the Quranic expression "Bismillah al-Rahman al-Rahim". We made a note of it to dwell deep at some other time.















Just opposite the tomb lies the mosque with a pond in between with a fountain on our right (west). The pond is dry so is the fountain. You tend to miss it completely if you walk through casually. Domes of both tomb and mosque were rising from a lotus petal base with crescent moon at top wherein four minarets arose from each corners. The mosque is simple with ornamental niche and prayer hall compared to the mausoleum.  

Commissioned by Ibrahim Adil Shah II and designed by Persian architect, Malik Sandal, the mausoleum complex is set in a walled garden. In order to maintain symmetry, both structures were balanced in style and volume. It is said to have built between 1580 to 1627.











Despite being a Muslim Adil Shah II was fondly called as Jagadguru Badshah. He was a great patronage of art. He was well-versed in playing musical instrument Tanpura. It is said he composed poems on his wife Chand Sultana, his Tanpura Motikhan, and his elephant Atish Khan. Have you noticed that it is always a ruler who is a great patron of art and architecture leaves behind such an exceptional legacy? Some say such engineering marvels were done for their selfish reasons to have the eternal glory. Are not we all selfish that way?

We saw people relaxing in the veranda and in the garden. We also settled in some corner where we could people watch and mull over the things we have seen. Just above us there were few parakeets on the roof. Few moments went in trying to capture them as they are were shy birds. In a place like this seconds or minutes, even hours are inconsequential. It is in an age-old place like this we find the most solace, the structure does not even have to be intact. 



Ibrhaim Rouza is an exceptionally perceived and brilliantly executed Islamic architecture. The complex is very well maintained by the ASI. The sun was about to set in sometime, so we decided to head to Saat Kabar, an eerie spot to say the least.

Tips:

Visitor's Time: 6 am. to 6 pm

Entry Fee: 5 INR

Four Wheeler Parking: 15 INR

Best Season: June-February

Best Time: Early morning or evening

Places to Club: Badami, Aihole, Pattadakallu

Sunday 11 October 2020

Apsarakonda Falls, Apsarakonda

A captivating name. Tucked amidst the forest. No fellow homo sapiens. We in solitude. Couple goals.

Route: Mirjan-Kumta-Haldipura-Karki-Honnavara-Apsarakonda

We were coming to Apsarakonda from Mirjan Fort. The journey took around 40 minutes to reach. Time wound have been 9:30 or so, still no sign of anyone. In the thick of greeneey we could hear streaming water. Sigh board is well-marked. We started our downward journey. The fallen leaves crunched beneath our feet. The trees hum with life all around us. And birds sing sweetly as if to welcome us.

Down the path there is a stream. It is not the kind of torrential pour, but the gentle sort. The nearby rocks were slippery. The slow flow created a shallow pool. The water is crystal clear, refreshing and cool. We had no intention either to take a dip or swim.

However, famed tale about this place is that Apsaras (celestial nymphs) used to take bath in the very pond (konda) and relax, hence the adorable name. And we could understand why. But for the steady sound of gushing  water, there is absolute stillness. The water falls directly on the sacred fig tree before falling to the pond. It is said there are few natural caves behind the tree, which we could find by squinting a little. The thick canopy blocked the sunlight as if they spread a thick blanket around them.

Our solitude was disturbed by the arrival of people. Immediately after coming down the steps they all jumped into the pool playfully, screaming, splattering water. It was our cue to head out of the place and we did. 






There was shop just beside the temple where we purchased cool drinks, ice creams, snacks, and buttermilk. Here we had a conversation with the shop owner who told how the place is gaining popularity especially among city folks. Even though he was a businessman it was his pet peeve that he does not want too many crowd as they tend to spoil the serenity of the place. He suggested us to visit Kelginoor pond, an artificial waterbody; Apsarakonda Beach; and Apsarakonda Park. We thanked him and decided to visit the park and giving a miss on other two due to time constraint.

After paying a nominal price of INR 10 we entered the park, which was maintained by the Forest Department of Karnataka. The park was landscaped differently with distant carved stones benches and ornamental trees. There were two to three dilapidated buildings that were designed peculiarly with stone patchwork. Somewhere down the line a tiny pond was tucked along the jungle. Well-paved pathway lead us to a pavilion from where we could see the sandy beach of Apsarakonda.  A planter was spread across the roof of the pavilion beautifully. The atmosphere was calm and relaxing. We would get lost in the quietness endlessly if we have not had the long onward journey.













Tips

Best Season: June-October

Best Time: Early morning or evening

Entry Fee:

Apsarakonda Park-10 INR

Apsarakonda Falls-Free

Items to carry: Carry swimwear if you plan to swim.

Carry sunscreen, umbrella or cap as the coastal temperature soars during the day    

Nearby Places: Apsarakonda Beach, Kelginoor Pond, Pandava Caves, Murudeshwara, Gokarna, Mirjan Fort