Sunday 23 April 2017

Tana-Riri


First we heard the story of Tana-Riri by a guide during our visit to Sun Temple Modhera. Though we couldn't visit the historic site of Solanki era, somehow this story stuck in our memory.

Tansen, the famous court musician of Emperor Akbar is known to sing "Raag Deepak" and lit lamps in the court. Once, however, this dedication he rendered to play the tune made him fall sick. It is said only "Megh Malhar Raag" can cure his illness.  There were not many who were well versed in this tune, and definitely not in Akbar's court. Thus began Tansen's search for the singers. He traveled through the length and breadth of India in pursuit to find one. His search ended in Vadnagar, Gujarat where he found Tana and Riri, accomplished singers. Hearing Tansen's plight they sang and brought him back to health.

Once he is back in Delhi, Akbar is very happy to see him and equally impressed by the singer duo. So, they were summoned to sing in Akbar's court. It is a norm in their community not to sing outside the neighborhood of their village deity. Thinking about the repercussion of their decline would have on the village, the distraught sisters chose to end their life by drowning in a well. Much later when Akbar heard about the incident he apologized profusely to sisters' father. He even commanded Tansen to create a new genre in music in honor of Tana-Riri.

The fable became part of Gujarati folk culture.  An annual classical music festival is held in Vadnagar near the Tana-Rari Samadhi every year.  Muscians from all over India perform here in tribute to these sisters.

Sunday 16 April 2017

Bubble Pond, Goa


This place was suggested by the receptionist at the hotel we are staying in, in Patnem. He insisted we wouldn't be disappointed. And equally excited we are by the info.

Pristine tropical forest's thick canopy was playing hide and seek with the rising sun. Various sign boards suggested Netravali Wildlife Sanctuary lies in this lush wilderness. The drive took us away from the Goan beaches. We stopped three to four times asking for directions only to be realized later the Bubble Lake is locally goes by the name Budbudi Tala or Bubudi tali in Konkani. We traveled back in the year December 2013, GPS and tourist signs are not that hip and the "Bubble Lake" is a very less-known attraction.


Nestled in the Netravali area of Sanquem taluk the Gopinath Temple is small and adorable. This "Budbudi Tali" is the step-well tank or Kalyani of this very temple. The entire area was deserted, but the quietness it offered is surreal. It is said the lake is 300 to 400 years old.

The fable goes something like this; endowed with magical powers the local gods create the mysterious ripples. The bubbles rise to the surface at a regular intervals. Withhelding our breath we focused solely on the lake beholding the magic moments. As advised by the receptionist we clapped multiple times to get the ripples in quick succession.





There is a stone platform in the middle of the pond. The ripple arises to the surface in circular pattern with vibration of sounds, hence we were told to clap in the vicinity. There was absolutely no scientific explanation about this illusion. Later we researched a little to get some information and this is what we found. Some says the aquatic plants on the base emit methane gas, thus creating ripples whilst others opine it is a combination of carbon or sulphur dioxide or lime stone.



Crystal clear water stopped us from dipping our feet in water. Encircling the temple for a bit we headed back to Patnem feeling happy to take this less traveled road.

Sunday 9 April 2017

Somnath Temple, Somnath


"A blend of mythology, history, spirituality, and philosophy.  Holy pilgrimage site, one of the 12 Jyothirlingas"

The first thing that comes to mind when we hear Somnath temple is invasion and destruction. Our school books said Mohammad Ghazni conqured, plundered, and looted this temple 17 times. We believed what we were taught without questioning. Through our drive from Junagad to Somnath we conversed about the approximate distance between Afghanistan and Somnath, mode of transportation in that period, harsh weather condition, and food supply. It is impossible for any one regime to create such havoc in such a short period of time. Later we learnt it is true the temple was vandalized and rebuilt 5 to 6 times in the past; however, how did did the magic number "17" emerge is still a mystery to us. History says temple was ransacked by Mohammad Ghazni in 1024, Khilji's army in 1296, Zafar Khan in 1375, Mahmud Begada in 1451, Portuguese in 1546, and Aurangzeb in 1665.




On the western coast of Gujarat, a seashore temple located in Prabhas Patan near Veraval is the famed Somnath Temple. Being one of the 12 Jyothirlingas Somnath is a holy pilgrimage site for many Hindus. Jyothirlinga shrines are the places where it is believed Shiva appeared in the form of blazing column of light.



Legend: Lord Soma was married to 27 daughters of Daksha Prajapthi. Their names are Ashwini, Bharani, Kritika, Rohini, and so on. Ring any bell? Yes, they are the Nakshatras (stars) of planet used extensively in Hindu astrology. Lord Soma was enamored by Rohini and quite naturally giving her more attention than others. Distraught by this partiality other wives complained to their father. Raged with anger Daksha cursed his son-in-law to lose his brilliant lustre. Lord Soma meditated in this very place to Lord Shiva who also happened to be his the brother-in-law/co-brother (Shiva married Daksha's daughter Sati). Out of concern Shiva decreased Moon's curse by giving the ability to wax and wane every 15 days respectively. In honour of Lord Shiva a golden temple was built by lord Soma.


Legend has it Soma (Moon God) constructed the Somnath Temple from gold, Asura king Ravana from from silver, Lord Krishna from sandalwood, and King Bhimdev from stone.

The idea of present time temple was visualized by Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel. Reconstruction was completed in May 1951 under the tutelage of K.M.Munshi, then head of temple trust. Chalukya style of architecture is adapted in this 155 feet tall temple with flag post of 8.2 meter being the focal point.

We deposited our wallet, camera, cell phones in the cloak room before moving in for Darshana. The pillars, sculptures, and carvings on the ceilings and walls are beautiful. It might be prude to say we were little disappointed. Fresh from visiting Rani Ka Vav just a week ago, which was built in 10th century by above mentioned King Bhimdev's wife, the present day work fell short of our expectations. However, we acknowledge the efforts put forth by the artisans of liberated India. Just imagine how difficult it would have been to built a nation that was looted by British over 300 years.


In the temple corridor don't miss the arrow pillar (Banasthamba) which has an inscription that says "There is no land in a straight line between Somnath seashore until Antarctica." We overheard someone telling Antarctica is where Dakhsa was hiding when he was ordered to be killed by Lord Shiva after Daksha Yaga. Oh!!! How much we love legends. And rumor has it Shymantaka Mani (Philosopher's stone) linked to Lord Krishna is hidden in the hollowness of this very Shivalinga.




We paid 5 rupees each for telescopic view of Swayambhu lingas (self appearing) in sea just 5 kilometer from temple.  As it was almost 12 o'clock the water level started to recede. We saw something in black, either it could be lingas or just plain rocks, we couldn't be sure.



We had to skip Gita Mandir, Bhalka Teertha, Triveni Sangam due to time constraint. As they say you should always leave some places only to return next time. Though not very religious the calmness of the place made us spiritual and philosophical for a bit.

Sunday 2 April 2017

The Chapel of Our Lady of Rosario, Daman


Just minute or two walk from Bom Jesus Church lies The Chapel of Our Lady of Rosario. Our first thought seeing it from outside was "Oh! just another church." With chapped up outside walls it looked very ordinary. But we were in for a surprise and what a pleasant surprise it was. The striking wood carvings are detailed to the perfection. On the lateral wall of apse the tales of Christian saints are illustrated. Our knowledge of Christianity and its saints is very minimal. Hence couldn't identify any of the figures. It is said "the ceiling is decorated with multicolored rose petals and cherubic golden angels. The alter of the chapel is perhaps the most ornately carved and gilded example among all the Portuguese churches in India."   








Portuguese were successful in warding off Maratha King Shivaji's attack. Their belief was that they could achieve this because of the blessings of Lady Rosario. So as an expression of gratitude towards Lady the chapel was built in 17th century A.D. Even after 300 years and odd the magnificent art work looks new and opulent.





Once in Moti Daman all the churches are in and around in walkable distance. A walk through the colonial buildings, appreciating Portuguese architecture took us back to the provincial time. Happiness is visiting new places, trying to visualize the lives of past, and weaving stories of our own.