Shibuya Crossing/Hachiko, Tokyo

Shibuya Crossing and Hachiko was in our circuit during our visit to Tokyo. Generally we are those travelers who will know exactly where to go, how to go, what to see, and importance of the place. Yes, a lot of research goes into it, but we just love it and wouldn't have it any other way. However, due to a personal tragedy we were not in the right state of mind to do anything, least the researching.

We almost scoffed off hearing about Shibuya Crossing. Though we have seen in it the movie, Fast and Furious-Tokyo Drift, clueless nonetheless until we get to watch the famous pedestrian scramble crossing and be a part of it. We reached the Shibuya station around 8 in the morning from Asakusa. Having witnessed the energetic Japanese side in the last two days, we weren't surprised to see the hustle bustle at rush hour. View from the Shibuya station is the best we could get as we didn't want to visit the well-known Starbucks and wail away our time in the hope of getting the best shot. We left the station at Hachiko exit, one of the five exits of Shibuya Station. All vehicles comes to a stand still in all directions to allow pedestrians to cross the intersection. In the sea of people, we didn't collide with anyone while crossing. How silly of us to even think that. We are talking about Japanese here, the epitome of discipline and efficiency.

Right in front of the station is the illustrious statue of Hachiko. It is meeting point for many and said to be crowded all the time. And obviously people like us who wished to be photographed with the most loyal dog in the history.

Story: Hachiko, a breed of Akita dog was born in Odate, Akita Perfecture, Japan in November 10, 1923. Hidesaburo Ueno, a professor in agriculture department at Tokyo University had adopted Hachiko as pet in 1924. "Hachi" means eight and "Ko" means affection. The daily routine of them is that Hachi will see his master off to work every day in the morning at Shibuya Station and will wait to welcome him at the station when he returns from work. This was their set schedule for nearly a year. Station staff and other commuters who had seen these duo together several times vouched for it later.

In May 21, 1925 Hachiko was waiting for his owner at the same spot unbeknown to what happened to him. Professor Uneo suffered cerebral hemorrhage and died unexpectedly while giving a lecture.

Hachiko stayed with Professor's gardener from then onward. However, he continued going to Shibuya Station every morning and evening for the rest of his nine years waiting for his beloved master's return without understanding the master has gone to a place from where there is no return.

An article published in "Asahi Shimbun" in October 4, 1932 garnered a lot of attention and gave Hachiko a celebrity status to become a household name all over Japan. And not to forget the inspiration he had on films, books, popular culture.

In April 1934, a bronze statue was unveiled in front of Shibuya station in a grand ceremony where Hachiko in all likelihood was the chief guest if we may say. Hachiko died in March 8, 1935 at the age of 11 on a street in Shibuya. He was cremated and his ashes were buried in Aoyama Cemetery, Minato, Tokyo besides his beloved master, Professor Ueno.

In August 1948, a new bronze statue of Hachiko was formulated as old was recycled as source of metal during World War II. Hachiko exit/entrance is one the five exits in Shibuya Train Station.

When are happy and exhilarated to see world's most faithful dog, best and oldest friend of mankind.

Nageshvara-Chennakeshava Temple, Mosale

After spending almost two hours in Shettihalli Rosary Church, we moved to the next destination in our circuit. Mosale, a quaint village situated around 10 kilometers from Hassan city. GPS came up with three options, and like wise people we settled for the shortest route. Even though it was mid afternoon the wintry climate was pleasant, Wind was blowing breezily as we passed through dry fields. The road narrowed as we went ahead signing us to take a deviation at mud path. This is where we always stuck to our standard rules. "When in doubt just deflect the GPS and continue with better road". It reroutes for you and you follow that path. It is risky sometimes as we may end up in the same road only to travel few kilometers more, but that never happened so far. We took almost 45 minutes to reach the place because of scarcity of roads. Adaptation skill is one of the best characteristic features of Indians (read us), hence we can survive anywhere with just basics. We digress.

Near the bus stop of Mosale we asked for directions just to be sure we were on the right tract, but they were clueless about the place. However, they directed us to go to "Mosaleyamma" temple, which we assumed is quite popular. Mosale means crocodile in Kannada, so we gathered maybe because of the above mentioned temple, the village got its peculiar name.  Once we reached, we parked the vehicle a little afar as bullock carts were blocking the road that leads to the temple complex.

As expected the temple was isolated much to our delight except for a caretaker. Both the temples were locked, but the caretaker, mostly employed by ASI readily agreed to show us around. He requested us not to take any photographs inside the temple because of a recent theft.

Info: The Nageshvara-Chennakeshava temple was built in 1200 A.D. under the command of Hoysala King Veera Ballala II. Now the temple complex is protected and maintained by Archaeological Survey of India. Standing adjacent to one another, these temples are the perfect example of identical twin. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, Nageshwara temple is in the south wherein Chennakeshava temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu stays in the north. It tells a lot about the perfect balance between Shaivites and Vaishnavites of that time. 

Hoysala architecture used soap stones widely, hence withering is slow. Both temples have a porch entrance leading to the square enclosure (mantapa) further directing towards the sanctum (garbagudi). The bay ceilings are supported by shining pillars. The Shikara (tower) of both temples is built in Vesara style. As it is a norm in Hoysala architecture the inner and outer walls are adorned with intricate carvings. We were proud and humble at the same time seeing the craftsmanship of these artisans. Words fall short to describe the sheer beauty of this architecture.

We couldn't help wondering who were these artisans, what their life was like, where were they trained to accomplish such a gifted skill? There is no answer. We spent almost two hours appreciating, discussing, and introspecting. we were elated to discover these unique temples. It is definitely worth a visit for history and architecture enthusiastic like us.

Tips

How to Reach: Bangalore-Nelamangala-Kunigal-Yadiyur-Channarayapattana-Hassan-Mosale. And please don't get confused with another Mosale in Arsikere. This temple we are talking about is Mosale, Hosahalli, Hassan District. It is better to give GPS destination as "The Nageshvara-Chennakeshava temple complex before nearing Hassan.

If you more than three days you can club it with Belur, Halebidu, Shettihalli Church, Belavadi, Shravanabelagola.

Where to Stay: Hassan offers many small and big budget hotels.

Shettihalli Rosary Church

On a wintry morning in December we started our journey at 6 o'clock on dot. The sun is yet to rise and roads deserted. The temperature was 18, not very chill, just pleasant. The route we opted was Bangalore-Nelamangala-Kunigal-Yadiyur-Channarayapattana-Hassan-Shettihalli Church. The only stop was for breakfast near a roadside hotel. Normally we don't opt for big hotels unless we had to take a bio break. These small hotels offer delicious preparations though the options are limited to two to three items, like Idli/Vada, Dosa, and any Rice item (Lemon rice/Pulav/Tomoato bath). We were hardly disappointed with these small joints. And there is no harm in bantering with locals a little bit. Morning was gloriously bright. It was around 10 by the time we reached the Shettihalli Rosary Church.

Shettihalli is a small village around 22 KM from Hasaan. It used to be the hamlet of sunflower and castor fields. Rich British estate owners in Alur and Sakleshpur requested French missionaries to build a church for them, hence, Shettihalli Rosary Church came into existence in 1860.  The church was frequented by the Christian community of Shettihalli as well as nearby villages like Madanakopplu, Doddkopplu, Gaddekopplu, and Changaravalli.

Exactly a century later, the Government of Karnataka took up the project to built a reservoir across Hemavathi river at Gorur to irrigate lands in Hassan, Mandya, and Tumkur districts. The whole area flooded making villagers to uproot and to be rehabilitated in nearby towns like Arakalgudu, Channarayapattana, and other parts of Hassan taluk. This also led to the desertion of church. Since then it submerges in monsoon and emerges in winter and summer.  So, ideally one should visit this church two times in a year to see in its complete splendor. 

There was absolutely no one around the place when we reached giving an eerie feeling. Parking the vehicle was not an issue as we rejoiced the idea of having the haunted(?)/holy church for ourselves. It was built one and a half centuries ago in brilliant Gothic architecture. Now the remnants of tall church can be seen only in walls, arches, and few columns. We were able to observe altar and central aisle once inside. It is totally devoid of roof and stained glass. Reportedly the construction materials used are mortar, bricks, and a mixture of jaggery and eggs. Could this be the magic potion that helped the church to stand tall against all odds? A mixture of hues and colors add to the rustic charm to this beautiful structure.

Broken alcohol bottles were strewn around the place, so needed to be careful while walking. As a norm the eternal lovers scribbled undying love messages on the walls. This is the sorry state of our country and we are nothing but ashamed of this callous behavior. 

We could see a few women washing clothes in the stream of Hemavathi backwaters. And herd of cattle grazing at a distance. There is a small dormant bridge across the channel. The green landscape, blue sky, flowing water, cool breeze, and serenity just adds on to this mysterious church. It was around 12:30 we left the place agreeing upon to visit the place in monsoon.

By Road: Bangalore-Nelamangala-Kunigal-Yadiyur-Channarayapattana-Hassan-Shettihalli Church.

Nearby Attractions: Belur, Halebidu, Shravanabelagola, Mosale, Belavadi

Best Time: Any time of the year. Either it will be in submerged or emerged form.