Mehtar Mahal and Taj Bawdi, Vijayapura (Bijapura)

It is always nice to talk to people who traveled to that particular place you're eyeing for. Once such friend dismissed us vehemently not to go to Vijayapura (Bijapura). His exact words and we quote "Apart from Gol Gumbaz, the city is dry, dusty, and dull. You like to travel does not mean that you have to go everywhere in the world". Obviously we didn't follow his suggestion as you could see several posts chronicling our journey. Bijapura is definitely much more than Gol Gumbaz if one is interested in history, architecture, and ruins.

One such dilapidated building is Mehtar Mahal. Entry to the Mahal was closed when we reached there. Neither there was anyone to tell us whether it is open for visitors nor any sign board to mention the time. And strangely it is situated beside the busy road. 

This lean three-storey structure is flanked by two columns on either side is entrance to Mehtar Mosque and garden. The mosque was built by a Mehtar (sweeper) of King's court by collecting gold hailed upon him by king during his service. Timeline of the palace is said to be 1620, during Ibrahim Adil Shah II's tenure.

We thought of coming back again in the evening, but in the chaos of the day's activities we could not find time or energy to return. It would be nice if we could explore this Indo-Saracenic architecture. Maybe next time around.

From Mehtar we headed to Taj Bawdi, a water reservoir. Entrance was through an arch surmounted by two large octagonal towers on either side. The thing repelled us the most was trash floating on this otherwise beautiful water tank. It breaks our heart to see sheer negligence in handling a piece of history in this reckless manner. 

This Bawdi was built by Ibrahim Adil Shah II for his queen Taj Sultan in 1620. If you remember he is the king who constructed Ibrahim Rouza for the same queen.

The measurement of this square-shaped reservoir is 223 square feet and depth is 52 feet. An aisle runs along each side with resting rooms at its left, right and front. It is said this reservoir was also used for various water sports, hence the construction of rest houses. The passage was in shambles that we could not walk through. Few people were swimming to reach those stony rest rooms. Though flight of stairs lead to the water, we did not dare seeing the filth and stench. Those days water was supplied to the cities through the tunnels from the bawdies. There is historical evidence to show Adil Shahi's had mastered the art of water supplying and water harvesting. There are numerous Bawdies in Bijapura, however, Taj is considered the biggest and artistic.

We are the people who would love to spend time on such piece of history, but due to its poor maintenance we had to rush out hurriedly. The administration should and must take some measures to restore this beautiful pond that has history of four hundred years.

Tips

Entry: Free

Time: Anytime

Season: Any Season

Nearby Attraction: Ibrahim Rouza, Gol Gumbaz, Bara Kaman, Saat Kabar, Malik-E-Maidan, Navarasa Mahal, Juma Mosque, Upli Burj

Malik-E-Maidan, Vijayapura (Bijapura)

 "A day will come when a cannon will be exhibited in museums, and the people will be astonished that such a thing could have been"-Victor Hugo

A little less than 500 meters from Upli Burj lies the Sher-A-Burj. A beautiful lawn surrounded the tower. It was pleasurable to relax here under the shades and take in some fresh air. Few families were having picnic while children run through the pathway, giggling as they played their little games.

Malik-E-Maidan (Master of the Field) also known as Sher-A-Burj was erected in fond memory of Battle of Talikote (1565) by Ali Adil Shah I as he was instrumental in making a successful alliance between Deccan Sultanates and eventual fall of mighty Vijayanagara empire.

Victor Hugo proved to be right. This is the third cannon we are seeing being displayed. We moved through an arch that took us to a flight of stairs and top of the citadel. A large crowd was circled around the object of interest.

The cannon was present on one corner of the bastion barricaded spirally with iron gates. It was planted on the wooden planks. It is said to be the largest medieval cannon in the world measuring 4 meters long, 1.5 meters wide, and weighing 55 tons. The gun was originally casted in Ahmadnagar in the 15th century. After defeating Ahmadnagar Shahis it was carried as a war trophy back to Bijapura. Transportation of gun from Ahmadnagar to Bijapura was a monumental task because of its heaviness. Ten elephants, 400 bulls, and several men were used to drag this. It is believed they were supposed to bring two cannons, however, one fell into the river while crossing it. We were curious to know how they crossed the river? Was it during summer when the river is mostly dried up? So the elephants and bullocks could walk through them? Maybe there was no means to lift the fallen cannon and put it back on the cart? Traveling a distance of 340 kilometers with heavy object would have taken many months. 

The cannon was casted from blending five metals like iron, copper, tin, bronze and brass. That is why it is heavy, durable, and rust-proof. It does not get hot under blazing sun, though we could not put that to test as it was barricaded by fence. Diameter of the bore is approximately 15 inches. There was a tinge of green on the surface. 

If we have to believe the guide the explosion was so loud that the cannoneer had to jump into a nearby pond after setting the fire to avoid going deaf. He even showed us the alleged pit, that was covered in thorny bushes now. Another anecdote is that in 1854 magistrate of Bijapura tried to auction this cannon for 150 INR, but auction was called off due to unknown reasons. 

Near the faucet of cannon there is an engraved elephant in between the jaws of lion illustrating the elephant is being killed by the lion. This is supposed to be the highlight of cannon. The inscription in Arabic/Persian narrates two facts as narrated by the guide; one the gun was casted in 1549 in Ahmadnagar from bell metal by a Turkish named Muhammad Bin Husain Rumi and another was Aurangzeb thwarted Bijapura in 1885-1686. Even British had the intention of carrying the gun to back home, but dropped the plan due to its heaviness.

We were not very sure of the factuality of history; the stories of interesting nonetheless. 

Tips:

Best Season: June-February

Best Time: Preferably morning or evening

Visitor's Time: 9 am to 5 pm

Entry Fee: Free

Nearby Attractions: Ibrahim Rouza, Gol Gumbaz, Bara Kaman, Saat Kabar, Navarasa Mahal, Upli Burj

Upli Burj, Vijayapura (Bijapura)

First thing that comes to our mind when we hear burj is the famous Khalifa of Dubai. As you have guessed it is an 80 feet tall tower right in the middle of a busy road in Vijayapura (Bijapura) just 3 kilometers away from Gol Gumbaz.

Probably one in the afternoon was not the best time to see a place like this especially if you are in North Karnataka. Again, one cannot wait only for early morning or evening as that window was quite short. After parking the vehicle we clambered up the circular steps. Have you noticed when the staircase is spiral the climb is tedious. Here however the steps were broad and the distance between each stride is shorter. We counted the steps to be 70.

Standing tall at a height of 80 feet this watch tower was built by Hyder Khan, commander-in-chief of Ibrhim Adil Shah II in 1584. Hence it is also called Hyder burj. The edges of the circular structure was completely stone-fenced, so it is safe for children and acrophobics. Every brick of the tower had been placed into a perfect circle. It was used for military purposes in older times. An old man sitting at a corner said the visibility to a solider stationed here stretched for 50 kilometers. That was hard to believe exaggeration even for an old man, but we were not going to diffuse his irrational theory. Who knows he would have genuinely believed that narration.

There were two imposing cannons, one a little bigger than another. There was a stony platform of circular base and vertical top that separated the cannons. The pillar on the platform holds iron cords that were connected to the hooks of both cannons. We think these were new additions to give balance to these artilleries. One cannon was stationed on stony pulpits while the other on the floor. Both were heavy and massive. 

The tower offers 360-degree angle view of the Vijayapura (Bijapura) town. We spotted Gol Gumaz among others faintly. Though it was blazing sunny, wind was roaring with gust. The walls are strongest standing tall for hundreds of years. If the stones could whisper we get to hear tales of life of bygone era. 

Tips

Best Season: June to February

Best Time: Early morning/evening

Entry: Free

Visitor's Time: 8 am to 5 pm

Nearby Attractions: Ibrahim Rouza, Gol Gumbaz, Bara Kaman, Malik-E-Maidan

Attire and Accessories: Cotton clothes, comfortable shoes, umbrella/cap, sunshades, sunscreen, water bottles

Jama Mosque, Vijayapura (Bijapura)

“Whoever prays shall find peace”-Lailah Gifty Akita

This is the second monument we have come across in Vijayapura (Bijapura) commemorated in honour of the victory over Vijaynagara in Battle of Talikote in 1564; the first one was Malik-E-Maidan Burj. It was commissioned by Ali Adil Shah I in the year 1578; however, it is said mosque was never completed because of lack of two minarets on the eastern entrance. Also being called as Jamia and Jumma, this one is one of the largest mosques in South India. 

Since it was Saturday the mosque was rather quiet, devoid of any crowd. The central Mihrab was bedecked with gold. The engraving was in Persian essentially of Quran verses. In 1676, these inscriptions were completed by Malik Yakut who was appointed by Sultan Muhammad Adil Shah. When mosque was built by Ali Adil Shah I, it was devoid of any glitter and pomp as he followed Shiite sector.  But, his grandson Muhammad Adil Shah, a practicing Sunni and it was at his time the mosque saw major upliftment in terms of design.

The courtyard is of square-shaped, while three sides consisting of seven arches each. The semi-circular dome rises above the Mihrab with crescent moon for a crown. The arches intersect at the top to form an octagonal cornice for supporting the base of the dome. The columns and ceilings were adorned with simple yet elegant designs. Usually we see carpets or prayer mats spread across the floor in most of the mosques. Here, the flooring is bare with elongated tiles.

This congregational architecture was on built on 1,16,300 square feet allowing around 2500 devotees to pray at a time. An arch was added to the entrance by Aurangzeb when he conquered Bijapura for a brief period.

We rested in the verandah taking in all the beauty of this architecture. We pondered over the religion, mankind, civilization, belief, and philosophy. We are not the ideal believers, but know how to keep our blessings and good fortune close to heart and count them too.

"Put no trust in life; it is short"

Tips

Best Season: Any

Visitors' Time: Avoid Friday and prayer time

Entry: Free

Nearby Attractions: Ibrahim Rouza, Gol Gumbaz, Navarasa Mahal, Bara Kaman, Saat Kabar, Malik-E-Maidan, Upli Burj