The republic day this year fell on Thursday. We are as patriotic as it could get, however, didn't want to plonk ourselves in front of television to watch Republic day parade. And visiting UNESCO World Heritage Site is nothing short of nationalism. In fact knowing our country's rich heritage is what every one should be doing if you ask us. Two of the cousins were more than willing to accompany us. We left home at 4 o'clock in the morning with the intention to reach the destination before 12 o'clock with single driver, that is Tarun. Our route of choice is;
Bangalore-Tumkur-Sira-Hiriyur-Chitradurga-Davangere-Harihara-Ranebennur-Haveri-Hubli-Navalgund-Nargund-Badami. The total distance is 510 KM.
Another option was Bangalore-Tumkur-Sira-Hiriyur-Chitradurga-Hospete-Badami. This one is the shortest route of 450 KM among two. We had traveled on this road to visit Hampi last year, and this one is one of the worst roads in Karnataka. And we had taken the first route to Vijayapura (Bijapur) last year, so we are more comfortable on this course despite having to shell out few hundreds for tolls. We passed through barren lands of cotton, maize, sunflower that had seen harvesting just a few days ago. With just breakfast stop and a bio break, we reached out hotel in Badami at 11:30. After having lunch in nearby restaurant, we thought of napping a bit as we need not have to be anywhere till evening.
Mythology: There lived two demon siblings named, Vatapi and Ilvala in ancient times in forest. They have killed many sages, kings, and common people. Their trick is that, they invite travelers into their house for a meal. Ilvala serves Vatapi as a dish saying this is the goat flesh from sacred fire (Yajna). After guests had eaten, Ilvala will call out "Vatapi, come out!. And Vatapi breaks through the stomach of guests killing them instantly. Later these two will eat the guest. Vatapi is well-versed in the art of transformation and has the power to turn himself into any form; wherein Ilvala knew "Mritasanjivini" Mantra to bring back the dead to life. One day Sage Agasthya was vounteered himself to be the guest who all along knew what these brothers were up to. As expected Agasthya was served Vatapi in a meat form, but before Ilvala could call him back, sage keeps his right hand over his stomach saying "Vatapi Jeernobhava (Vatapi get digested) thus killing him. Now enraged Ilvla tries to kill the sage; however, with the power of his Tapas (penance) Agasthya turns Ilvala into ashes. Thus Agashya ended the plight of people by killing these two demons, bringing peace and happiness.
The Northern and Southern Hills in Badami represents the two demons, Ilvala and Vatapi. And as the name suggests the lake in honour of saint Agasthya. Every South Indians would have heard the song "Vatapi Ganapthim Bhaje" in Carnatic music based on Hamsadhwani. Paramjyothi, commander-in-chief of Pallavas during Narasimhavarma I reign brought the Ganesha idol from Badami after defeating Chalukyas. Now the idol stays in Uthrapathiswaraswamy Temple, Tamil Nadu. Even the town Badami was ealier called as "Vatapi". It is easy to connect all the dots now. Immadi Pulakeshi shifted his Capital from Pattadakallu in 6th century AD to Badami. Historical records says it was an important commercial center even before that. The Green Geographer Tolemy referred Badami as "Badomoyee" in his book writing in 2nd century AD.
The large emerald green lake is awe-inspiring. Meandering through flight of stairs, we found a perfect place to sit and enjoy the evening pass by. We could see people flocking the Badami caves with gusto especially school children. Locals women were washing clothes in the lake. Our initial thought was how lucky they were to live in this beautiful place. Then reality hit hard, the grass is always greener on the other side. With sun casting its golden rays upon the blue sky, birds started finding their way back home. And it was time for us to move in search of Khara Mandakki (Type of Bhel) and cut chai.
How To Reach:
By Road: Bangalore-Tumkur-Sira-Hiriyur-Chitradurga-Davangere-Harihara-Ranebennur-Haveri-Hubli-Navalgund-Nargund-Badami. The total distance will be 510 KM. Few KSRTC buses ply to Badami from Bangalore. If one misses direct bus, then can alight at nearby cities like Vijayapura, Hubli, Gadaga, Hospete and travel to Badami by bus. Bus Station is in the center of the city, which is walkable distance from all the places of attractions in Badami.
By Train: Train station is 5 KM from city center. Trains from Bangalore, Bijapur, and other cities stop there regularly.
By Flight: Nearest Airports are Bangalore and Hyderabad.
Where to Stay: Badami offers many budget hotels.
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