Though Pattadakal bagged the coveted UNESCO World Heritage Site our heart is set on Badami cave temples. We tried to be as early as possible, but a huge crowd in school uniform was scattered all around the place. We were confident of them to be back in less than 15 minutes. Their teacher was arguing at the ticket counter about the slow process in issuing tickets. We witnessed a group of unruly youths forcefully trying to take a picture of a Russian lady with her kids when her husband was buying tickets. Before we could interfere the woman tactfully handled the situation. "Atithi Devo Bhavah" campaign by Amir Khan flashed in front of us for a second only to realize he is no longer the ambassador for that flagship program.
We were literally attacked by a monkey when we tried to get something from the car. Holding cameras, phones, and water bottle we did nothing to ward it off, but to scream. So, beware of monkeys! Always look around for them before getting in and out of your vehicle. Most importantly don't forget to shut all the windows because we watched monkeys getting into a bus snatching whatever they could get their hands on.
About 40 and odd steps lead to the entrance of cave. The first cave is the oldest of the four, dedicated to Lord Shiva, carved in 575 – 585 by Chalukya King Pulkeshi I. The entire red sandstone cliff was illuminating in the early morning winter sun. On the cliff wall to the right porch is a captivating image of Nataraja (Shiva) striking 81 dance poses (one for every combination of his 18 arms). Among other things he holds a snake, a musical instrument, and trident. Looks like Lord Ganesha is trying to follow his father's lead in dancing wherein musicians are playing "Tripura Vaadya" and Nandi sitting beside nodding silently at the performance.
Alongside is the chiseled statue of Godness Adishakti slaying Mahishasura (demon). At her right side is besitted Kartikeya on peacock, opposite to him is the idol of Ganapati without crown holding a Modaka (Ganesha's favourite dish) vessel. So, basically this corner houses the entire Shiva family.
On the right of the porch area is a huge figure of Ardhanarishvara. The right half of the figure shows features of Shiva, such as matted hair and a third eye, while the left half of the image has aspects of Parvati. Sage Bhringi who vowed to worship only Lord Shiva totally ignored Parvati. Angered by this disrespect Godess Parvati cursed the sage to lose everything he had gained through his mother. Hence the sage left with nothing but skeleton, and one could see him the sculpture as well.
On the opposite wall is a large image of Harihara; the right half represents Shiva and the left half Visnu. The Ardha Chandra, Kapala (pot), tiger skin is worn by Shiva while Vishnu wore decorated crown with ornaments tied in arms and a conch in hand. Goddess Parvati and Nandi as well as Goddess Lakshmi and Garuda stands beside respectively. It says a lot about the harmony between Shaivites and Vaishnavites of that time.
Couple of interesting sculptures on the ceiling could be easily missed if not accompanied by a guide. "On a first look you will see two children, up and down. Now take a closer look" he says covering parts with his hands showing us what needs to be looked. Voila! There are two more children in left and right. It depicts the four stages of childhood; sleeping, crawling, standing, and playfulness. We are stunned to say the least. Another idol consists of two animals, an elephant and a bull, but with one face. Showing a sculpture of Shiva and Parvati riding on a bull our guide joked couples going in high-end bikes of current age are nothing, they are just aping. We nodded our head in total agreement.
It should be noted that all the idols depicting the stories are carved exclusively in Mukha Mantapa (pillared veranda), not a single one in Sabha Mantapa (pillared hall) wherein small sanctum is devoid of Shivalinga.
The entire four caves are carved out of single sandstone cliff. We are just awed at the skill and intelligence of sculptors of that time.
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