Kemmangundi

After a late lunch in Tarikere, we proceeded towards our last destination of the day, Kemmangundi. Road to this illustrious hill station is all about potholes, cracks, and pits. We even wondered if this is the "Gundi" of Kemmangundi. Key to survive these kind of routes is to have abundance of patience. Passing through dense forests, we could hear chirping birds and twittering crickets. As we ascend the hill, temperature dropped dramatically. Blazing sun was playing hide and seek in the lush greenery. We always make up our mind to experience beautiful things despite the pathetic state of road.

Potholed Road

Kemmangundi offers many attractions like Sri Krishnarajendra Hill Station, Baba Budan Giri, Mullayanagiri, Hebbe falls, Kallathi falls, Honnamma falls, Shanti falls, Manikya Dhare. We zeroed down on Sri Krishnarajendra Hill Station. Kemmangundi was the summer retreat of Mysore King, Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV (1884-1940). After owning this place for nearly a decade, he donated the land to Karnataka Government. 

Legend: Kemmangundi was famed as "Chandra Drona Parvatha". It is believed that strong water current passing through countless herbs and medicinal plants has the healing power to cure diseases especially the skin ailments.

"The Beauty of nature is holy

Like Shiva’s shrine,

Come to these lovely hills

Which fill you with spring’s sunshine"

This is what Rashtrakavi Kuvempu penned down when he first visited Kemmangundi. Derivation of Kempu(red), mannu (soil), and gundi(pit) forms the name Kemmangundi, the land of red soil. Nested in Western Ghats Kemmangundi is 1434 meters above the sea level. 

We commented sarcastically about the road condition to the guy who collects parking fee, though not sure he understands it. Beautiful rose garden welcomed us, which is maintained by the Horticulture Department of Karnataka. The landscape was in and around the Raj Bhavan. We are told the Raj Bhavan had been the prime location for many movies and serials as well. View from here offers picturesque mountains, valleys, lush greenery. Though we could imagine the gorgeous sunset, sadly unable to witness the same.

Rose Garden

Raj Bhavan

We clambered up the hill a little to get the panoramic view. Breezy wind blowing in our hair, calmness in heart, natural beauty stretched far and wide in front of eyes, we could only make a promise to visit this Queen of hills again.

In Solidarity!

Glorious Sunset

How to Reach: Bangalore-Tumkur-Hiriyuru-Tiptur-Arasikere-Kadur-Birur-Kemmangundi

By Air-Nearest airport is Mangalore (190 KM) and Bangalore (250 KM)

By Train-Tarikere is nearest railway station, well-connected to Bangalore. 

By Bus-Kemmangundi is well-connected by bus as well.

Place to Stay: Raj Bhavan offers various cottages, advisable to book in advance. 

Bhadra Backwaters

Amrutheshvara temple, Amruthapura

Amruthapura is another destination near our home town, Shivamogga. There was some channel construction work going on, so we had to endure a lot of dust and chaos. We had taken a pit stop at Bhadra backwaters, so by the time we reached here it was exactly 12 in the noon, probably the worst time to visit a living temple. The sun was blazing down on us and it was impossible to keep our bare feet on hot pavement. Our advice is to visit the temple early in the morning or late in the evening. We hopped in and hopped off like frogs around the temple to get the sense of the place.

Amrutheshavara temple

Now we had to admit the name of the town is rather catchy. Amrutha (nectar) and Pura (town), together makes it a nectar town. However, the town got its name from the notable Amrutheshavara temple. Built in 1196 by Amrutheshwara Dandanayaka (general/commander) under Hoysala king Veera Ballala II, grandson of eminent Hoysala King, Vishnuvardhana. Hoysala kingdom reached its pinnacle during his regime beginning an era of Hoysala imperialism. He is the patron of art and architecture, and we were fortunate to witness the latter.

The best of Hoysala architecture can be seen with wide open hall, that is called Mantapa. Superbly glistening pillars support the ceiling of the mantapa. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, this temple is built in Ekakuta design, which consists of a shrine and a tower. The royal Hoysala emblem of Sala fighting the tiger is present on the Sukanasi.

Pillars

Nandi

Bench used to sharpen to chisels by locals much later

Celing

Hoysal Emblem

The south side of the wall has engraved epic Ramayana, wherein north side of the wall has stories of Mahabharatha and Bhagavatha. It is said that this is the only Hoysala temple where the complete story of these three epics is sculpted. We just had to believe the guide as it would take a whole day to figure that out. There is a statue of Lord Ganesha with consorts Siddhi and Riddhi on the ceiling, which is very uncommon sight for us.

Decorated Walls

Lord Ganesha

This is where the renowned architect and sculptor, Ruvari Mallitamma started his profession. He worked on the domed ceilings in the main mantapa; one could see his signature in Kannada script. A stone shaft consists the inscription of poems by famous Kannada poet Janna. He was notably called Kavichakravarthi (Emperor of poets). A court poet of Hoysala king Veera Ballala II, Janna contributed tremendously to Kannada literature with his writings. His illustrious work includes Yashodhara Charite, Ananthnatha Purana, and Anubhava Mukura.

Mallatamma's Sign

Inscription of poet Janna

When we were about take the leave, a person approached us and insisted we have lunch at Anna Dasoha Bhavana (free food hall) behind the temple. Reluctant at first, we went ahead to try something different. The hall was crowded with devotees waiting to be served food. Seeing this we decided to skip this and head out to have food somewhere else. But we were glad to visit this place, otherwise we would have missed a beautiful scenic spot just in front of the hall. There were dry leaves everywhere making crackling sound when we trudged through them. Sitting on the bench, just doing nothing, immersed in the setting, we almost forgot the pang of hunger. Promised ourselves to return again to appreciate the architecture more intently, we bid adieu with contentment.

Route from Bangalore by road: Bangalore-Tumkur-Tiptur-Arasikere-Kadur-Birur-Tarikere-Amruthapura. Amruthapura is situated at about 4 km from Tarikere.

Airport: The nearest airport is Bangalore International Airport

Rail: The nearest railway station is at Tarikere. People travelling from Bangalore towards Shivamogga can descend at Tarikere and proceed to Amruthapura, which is around 4 KM.

Where to Stay: Tarikere is the nearest town to stay, though the options are very limited. Birur, Bhadravathi, Chikmagalur, Hosadurga, Shivamogga are nearby towns to shelter in.

Important Tip: Try to visit either early in the morning or late in the evening. If you happen to be there at noon, please keep your socks on.

Amrutheshvara Temple comes under top 10 in the Hoysala trails (Belur,Halebidu, Mosale, Belavadi) that we started doing and will update them as and when they are done.

You can club it with kemmangundi.