"Do not pretend-be. Do not promise-act. Do not dream-realize"-The Mother
When someone says Golden globe a picture clicks in our mind other than the award of course. And that is Matrimandir of Pondicherry or Puducherry, now a Union Territory, but formerly a French settlement in India till 1956. A fun destination among youth next only to its popular cousin, Goa, Pondi is mostly underrated. Our trip happened almost 4 years ago in the late winter.
Route: Bangalore-Hosur-Krishnagiri-Chengam-Tiruvannamalai-Gingee-Tindivanam-Puducherry. Back then from Chengam the road condition was pathetic. It was drag racing and drifting in the dirt road (pun intended). We are hopeful the roads are in better shape now, however, nobody we know could vouch for it.
Witnessing the glorious sunrise together in Bay of Bengal is the first time experience. The promenade was desolated completely but for a few joggers. It surprised us to no end considering the huge crowd the previous evening. After having breakfast we headed off to Auroville which is at a good distance of 10 to 12 KM from white town.
Walking through a well-maintained lawn we reached the Visitors' Centre. It offers exhibition of Auroville, Matrimandir, and on its environmental work. A book shop, three boutiques presenting the best of Auroville handicrafts, a restaurant, and a solar tea shop completes the facilities at the centre. Visitors' Centre gives you an overall view of the aims, activities, and life of Auroville.
Info: Born Mirra Alfassa in Paris on 21 February 1878, the mother was a staunch follower of Sri Aurobindo. Under her guidance the Ashram has grown multifold. Sri Aurobindo relegated its full material and spiritual charge to the Mother. Auroville was established in 28 February 1968. Its founder, the Mother, created the Auroville Charter consisting of four main ideas which underpinned her vision for Auroville. It is an emerging international township dedicated to the idea of Human Unity. Close to 2000 people of 43 countries have take residence here. The charter guides the people who choose to live and work for Auroville. It is better defined as a university campus, a place for research in a new society.
After obtaining a free ticket to viewing point we proceeded our small walk. Winter or no winter the humidity of coast is unbearable. Easily which could have been 15 minutes walk stretched to an exhausting 30 minutes. We let go the free electric shuttle service seeing many senior citizens and kids. Being compassionate and considerate is not always a good policy as it brings hardship many times. Ah! When in a spiritual environmental like Auro even we tend to be a little philosophic.
We found a shaded place to sit and view the massive spherical domed structure. The golden globe was glittering in the bright sunlight. It is a beautiful structure from afar. One needs a prior booking to access the Matrimandir for meditation at least a day in advance. So we had to miss it this time but definitely the next time. We weren't in a hurry to go anywhere. our conversation circled around Sri Aurobindo, The Mother, French colony, French revolution, Indian Independence, all and sundry.
After buying a souvenir at the visitor's centre we left Auroville in late afternoon because we were famished. And needed a siesta before we hit the party of DJ Manucher of Vienna at "Asian House" from 8 P.M. well it is going to be long long night.
Tips:
Timing for issuing of Passes at the Visitors' Centre:
Mon-Sat-9.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m.
Sunday-9.00 a.m.-01.00 p.m.
Sunday Afternoon-Closed
Matrimandir View Point: 9 – 12 pm and 2-4.30 pm
Use the shuttle service
Prior book at least a day in advance if you wish to meditate inside the Matrimandir
Unbeknown to the importance of history, art, or heritage a school was running in the heart of Dandiya Bazaar area of Vadodhara. In the absence of benches or desks the children were made to sit on the floor. Evidently the last row kids would have taken the support of wall to lean on. And the paintings on those walls vanished bit by bit. It would have been in total shambles if not intervened by the Archaeological Survey of India.
Yes, we are talking about the erstwhile Maratha mansion, Tambekarwarda, Vadodhara in Gujarat. Kite festival of Uttarayana had just ended as many manjas (thread) scattered here and there. Finding a parking space is difficult in this busy street; however as we reached there pretty early in the morning we managed to find a space just around the corner. There are no one except the caretaker lady. She was courteous enough to show us around the place.
Info: Tambekarwada was the residence of Bhau Tambekar (Vitthal Khanderao), Diwan of Baroda to the Maratha Kingdom from 1849 to 1854 AD. Though a four-storeyed mansion, only second and third floor are for public view because the rest are in dilapidated state. A steep flight of stairs lead us to a large room. Every nook and cranny were riot of vibrant colours. The shell lime plastered walls and doors have murals depicting Ramayana, Mahabharata, battle scenes between Maratha-European soldiers, officials and dignitaries. Near the southern end of the hall is a wooden jali making a passage.
The second floor contains a large room with galleries on front and back sides and two smaller rooms. One room is totally white washed now, which initially had beautiful paintings as well. Another room's walls, windows, columns, doors are decorated with stories of Ramayana, Mahabharata, some copies of European paintings, battle scenes, and lifestyle themes. Floral and faunal motifs come alive with bright colours. The murals of lovers, wrestlers, Lord Kirshna's story, and many more adorned the space too.
The front portion of the house is restored to a great extent; however, the rest has gone to rack and ruin. The splashes of colours inside the house was in total contrast to the monochromal exterior. We were glad to chance upon this less known place that houses 140 years old paintings.
Opening
Moday-Friday: 9.00 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Closed:
Saturday and Sunday
Entry: Free
Address:
Tambeaker Rd, Dandia Bazar, Jambubet
Vadodara, Gujarat 390001
A man goes to evening walk never to be returned again. Poof. Just disappeared from the face of the earth. A lot of conspiracy theories ensued as it always happens. This part intrigued us to visit the above-mentioned man's house in Bangkok, now converted into a museum.
After a taxing shopping in Chatuchak Weekend Market there was one thing to do before we could call it a day. From Silom station using skytrain (BTS) we got down in national stadium station. After asking a few people we reached the Jim Thompson House which is just 5 minutes walk from the station.
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| Silk Weaving |
An American born in Greenville, Delaware Jim Thompson is an architect by profession. During World War II he enrolled himself in the army. However, he didn't participate in any war because it ended soon enough. He was posted in Europe as well as Asia. As a military officer he visited Bangkok and fell in love with the city. After retiring from the service he decided to call Bangkok his home.
He took interest in hand weaving silk, a long forgotten industry. Coming up with new ideas to revive the craft was easy for him being a textile colorist and a designer. It was during his time that the Thai silk got international recognition. And he clearly made a lot of fortune in this business.
He built his house containing six teak buildings in the traditional Thai architecture. The dismantable teak parts were at least two centuries old, purchased and brought to the present site from different parts of Thailand. The houses were elevated to full story above the ground, a practical Thai precaution to avoid flooding during the rainy season. The fired roof tiles are the original Ayuthaya design many centuries ago, which is uncommon these days. A typical Mangalore tiles we would say. The brick red paint on the outside walls is a preservative often found on many old Thai buildings. All the traditional and religious rituals were followed while constructing the house. And on an auspicious day in spring 1959 Jim Thompson moved into the house as per astrological norm. Though a traditional Thai house all the modern amenities like electricity and plumbing are taken care of.
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| Canal |
Drawing room and kitchen were the center of attractions. It is said even the chandeliers belong to 18th and 19th century from Bangkok palaces. Being an avid artifact collector Jim gathered many beautiful antiques from far and wide. The collection mainly consists of sculptures, Asian paintings, porcelains, and other small collectible items. The house and art collection draw huge attention, so Jim decided to open his home to the public for a nominal fee.
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| Porcelain Collections |
One could see a traditional Thai spirit house here. It is Thai belief that a resident spirit can play a major role in the fortune and destiny of the inhabitants of the compound. Hence the location of spirit house is very important. Usually the house is found in eastern, northern, or northeast corner of the compound.
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| Spirit House |
As we mentioned earlier on March 26th, 1967 Thompson disappeared in Cameron Highlands, Malaysia under mysterious circumstances. Now the property comes under James H.W.Thompson Foundation, and their motto is to preserve Thailand's artistic and cultural heritage. If you ever wondered how a filthy rich people live and what their lifestyle is, visit to Jim Thompson house gives a sneak peak into that. And if one is staying more than a week in Bangkok like we did then it is definitely worth a visit.
A newly married Indian couple were part of this guided tour as well. The over enthusiastic wife couldn't contain gushing about her new found knowledge while harangued husband looked as if he wanted to be anywhere but here. They entertained us or rather she did with her antics outside the house where we sat to reminisce. Oh! The pleasure of watching homo sapiens.
Tips:
Address: Opposite The National Stadium
6 Soi Kaseman 2, Rama 1 Road
Bangkok 10330
Open Everyday-9:00 a.m.-6.00 p.m.
Last guided Tour: 5:00 p.m.
Admission: 150 Baht
Getting There: Can be reached by car, taxi, tuk tuk, and sky train (BTS)
Photography is not allowed inside the house
