Saat Kabar, Vijayapura

Sun started sinking lower in the sky at Ibrahim Rouza. We asked an old lady who was watching over the footwears outside this monument about Saat Kabar. She looked horrified at first. Next thing we know she was chiding us for even thinking about going to that godforsaken place at this time of the day. It was only after promising her that we will not go there she calmed down. Old people!

Within 5 minutes we were on our way to Saat Kabar. The GPS brought us to the middle of no where. Just walked a little bit toward a field where a small girl standing. She showed us in another direction, but there was no road at all. To go or not to go was the dilemma. Finally trusting our sense of direction we reached another wide open space. Fortunately a bunch of local women standing and chatting. Before we could ask them they showed us in a direction. Amused first only to be realized later it is easy to guess seeing us with cameras hanging around our neck.

We noticed an Archaeological Survey of India's signboard. A narrow pathway surrounded by bushes lead us to the Saat Kabar. The place was totally deserted, giving us the eerie feeling.

Info: Once upon a time lived a commander-in-chief named Afzal Khan. He was married to 60 women. This was in the year 1659 during the realm of Ali Adil Shah II. Bijapur Sultanate was under constant threat by Mughals as well as Marathas. Afzal Khan, the formidable warrior had lead Bijapur army to victory in several battles in the past. He became the de facto leader to take on the Maratha army led by Shivaji in Pratapgarh. It is said all great men have one weakness and his was unwavering faith in astrology. The astrologer predicted his lose and death in the upcoming war.

He didn't want his 60 wives to be remarried again after his death. As sinister as it may sounds he made a decision overnight. He took all his wives to Navarasapura (about that on later) a few kilometers away from Bijapur city. One by one he pushed his wives into a well and drowned them to death. It is said one of the wives tried to escape, but in vain. The commander was gracious enough to built 60 graves for these lovely ladies in a place just a stone throw away from the execution site. He even expressed a desire to be buried next to his wives. Fortunately the astrologer's prophecy turned out to be true and Khan was slayed in the battle. The place where we stand is called the Saat Kabar, the dark tourist spot of Vijayapura.

The story is too disturbing to be true. We counted two times and the total number of graves is exact 60. We have heard about wife beaters, wife abusers, even wife murderers, but Afzal Khan goes down the history as mass murderer of unique nature. We dreaded to think what would have gone through the minds of those slayed women before the killing. We imagined they would turn in their grave precisely every time a visitor hear the tragic story. Afzal Khan's madness is testimony to what happens when power befalls in the wrong hands. Minutes pass in silence, dusk is slowly becoming the night, a small rustle in the bush made us antsy. A hollow sadness started intensifying, before it could engulf us we left the place in a jiffy.

Tips:

Best Time: July-February

Route: Bangalore-Tumkur-Chitradurga-Davangere-Haveri-Hubballi-Bagalkot-Vijayapura

Total Distance from Bangalore: 606 KM

Entry Fee: Free

Timings: Better visit in the day light as there are no lights or guards

-Railway station linked to Bangalore, Hyderabad, and other major cities
-Bijapur is well connected with other cities by bus
-Though we would not advise you can club Bijapur with Badami (Agasthya Tirtha; Cave temple 1; Cave temple 2; Cave temple 3)-Aihole-Pattadakal if time is at premium
-Visit only if the story fascinates you
-Other places to visit in Vijayapura (Bijapur)---Gol Gumbaz, Ibrahim Rouza, Bara Kaman, Navarasapura, Upli Burj, Shivagiri

-Local rickshaws are mode of transport, however, you need to negotiate the prices hard and smart before you could hire one as rickshaws have no meter