Golden Triangle II-Halebidu

Hoysaleshwara Temple

Journey through the capital city of Hoysala Dynasty, this  magnificent temple not only stood test of time but also illustrates the distinct Hoysala architecture in all its glory.

The next morning around 8 we were on our way to Halebidu by bus that is 32 KM. The view is what you call journey through the interior part of the state. It took an hour to reach there. When we inquired the receptionist of the hotel we stayed in Hassan, his advice was one should always visit Halebidu first and Belur next.  It was famously said in Kannada "Belur Ola Nodu, Halebidu Hora Nodu" (means beauty of Belur lies in inner sanctum and Halebidu outside).

View on the way

Halebidu or Dwarassmudra was the capital of Hoysala Empire in 12 to 13 century. There is a saying it got its name Halebidu because it was raided and looted two times by Malik Kafur (general of Alauddin Khilji, ruler of Delhi Sultanate). 

Front View of Temple

The temple complex has two temples, Hoysaleshwara and Kedareshwara. The Hoysaleshwara was built during King Vishnuvardhana's period. Two enormous monolith Nandis are inside the mantapas on sides of the temple as it is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The temple has two shrines, one is Hoysaleshwara and another Shantaleshwara. Standing atop a star-like structure or Jagathi is the signature of Hoysala architecture. The exterior facade is breathtaking and it can take hours to days to appreciate the art. The structures of elephants, lions, stories of Ramayana, Mahabharata, dancing nymphs, tidbits of lifestyle are carved out to the perfection. We have not seen this kind of splendid detailing in any other architecture. 

Monolith Nandis

Mantapa & Sanctum Sanctorum

Carvings on outer wall

Kedareshwara was built by Hoysala King Veera Ballala II (King Vishnuvardhana's grandson) dedicated to Lord Shiva. Soap stone was used for the construction as it is norm in Hoysala architecture.  It is advisable to hire a guide, otherwise one could have missed out on many important carvings. Art critic James Fergusson described it as an "outstanding example of Hindu architecture".  The temple complex is protected and maintained by Archaeological Survey of India.

Lord Ganesha

Ugra Narasimha & Mahishasura Mardini

Shiva-Parvathi & Brahma-Saraswathi

Door Keeper & Celestial Nymph

There said to be two Jain Basadi's nearby, but we gave it a miss as our previous day was all about Jain Basadis and Thirthankaras. The complex houses a museum that contains sculpture, photos, maps, etc., from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. The temple has been proposed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and we couldn't stop ourselves from asking why it is still not in the prestigious list.  We were awe-struck by our rich heritage, Halebidu is nothing but a marvel in stone and craftsmen were true geniuses.

Ceilings

Entrance

Tips: Ideal place to stay would be Haasan. From Haasan plenty of buses fly every 10 to 15 minutes.

Route: Bengaluru-Kunigal-Channarayapattana-Hassan-Halebeedu

Distance: 215 KM

Golden Triangle I-Shravanabelagola

Bahubali

This is the first trip we took during our courtship. And this is the trip where it was dawned upon us that we both love traveling and suckers for history, architecture, and monuments. This is the only trip where we traveled by bus so far. Yeah we miss it sometimes. When we decided to start a travel blog, we wanted it to be the first one for purely sentimental reasons. Yes, we are the emotional fools.

We got down in Channarayapatna.  Shravanabelagola is 13 km from Channarayapatna.  It is a town nestled between Vindhyagiri and Chandragiri, a major pilgrimage center for Jain.  We deposited our luggage in the locker room. There are almost 600 and odds-steps. It is not an easy task especially if you are not fit. It is advisable to carry water bottles as well as a pair of socks as one has to deposit the footwear at the locker room too.  The rock cut steps get really hot. The climb was not tedious even though the sun is beating us down. However, the sparkling Pushkarini and panoramic view cheered us enough.  We wonder how they will bring up all the materials for Mahamastakabhisheka that happens every 12 years where ghee,milk, honey, vermilion, sandal, rice, etc., are poured over this biggest monolithic structure in the world, Gommateshwara or Bahubali, carved out of a single piece of granite. It is 58 feet in height.  To say statue is magnificent is an understatement. It stands on a lotus structure. The curly hair, beautiful eyes, long arms, mystic smile, it is just out of the world. We heard lots of giggles from school girls. It is not everyday you see a naked statue. There is hesitancy in looking up the statue as most people were embarrassed.

Entrance

Steps

Pushkarini

Situated in the Vindhyagiri, the idea of statue was conceptualized and funded by Chavundaraya, general of Ganga dynasty of Talakad, vassal of Rashtrakuta. The time period of Bahubali is 978-993 A.D. All 24 Thirthankaras' carved statues are present in the corridor.

Tyagada Kamba: It is believed minister Chavundaraya distributed gifts to the needy and the deserving from here. Another view is that he renounced from here all his wordily possessions including his life.

There are many Basadis or shrines in these twins hills; Akkana Basadi, Chavundaraya basadi, Parshwanatha Basadi, Chandragupta Basadi to name a few.

Thirtankara

After sumptuous vegetarian lunch in a hotel in town, we started ascending the Chandragiri. This hill is relatively calm and serene as many tourists do not come here and we wandered in the history dating back to almost 2500 years. It is believed Chandagupta Mourya spent his last days here with Jain saint Bhadrabahu, that is around 300 B.C. We can see a footprint of Mourya king here. There is a mutilated Bharata statue present. We could capture only the posterior part as kids from different schools were scrambling around way too long.

There are several inscriptions found in here. Some of them are scribbled all over the walkway. The time period of them is from 600 to 1830, mentioning the rise and growth of various dynasties including Western Ganga, Rasthrakuta, Hoysala, Vijayanagara, and Wodeyar. ASI covered them with glasses to protect from erosion. The inscriptions are mainly in Halegannada (Old Kannada).  The highlight here is the signature of Chavundaraya and famous Kannada poet, Ranna.

Signature of Poet Ranna

Footprint of Chandragupta Mourya

As we visited this place almost 7 years back, we might have have missed or mixed up few things here and there. Sitting quietly on the boulder, we let ourselves immerse in the tranquility of history and religion. As the evening gloomed over, it was time to descend and head to our place of stay. We left Shravanabelagola to Hassan around 6. Hassan has better accommodation than Shravanabelagola and is ideal for our onward journey to Beluru and Halebidu.

Route:  Bengaluru-Nelamangala-Kunigal-Channarayapatna

If you have more than three days you can club it with Belur, Halebidu, Shettihalli Church, Mosale, Belavadi.

Distance:  143 KM

Tip: Start as early as possible in the morning.

Carry water bottle, a pair of socks, an umbrella or cap, sunglass.

It is ideal to set aside a whole day for these twin hills and its hidden history.

PS:  It is no wonder when Shravanabelagola was voted by readers of Times of India in 2007 as "Seven Wonders of India".