Saat Kabar, Vijayapura

Sun started sinking lower in the sky at Ibrahim Rouza. We asked an old lady who was watching over the footwears outside this monument about Saat Kabar. She looked horrified at first. Next thing we know she was chiding us for even thinking about going to that godforsaken place at this time of the day. It was only after promising her that we will not go there she calmed down. Old people!

Within 5 minutes we were on our way to Saat Kabar. The GPS brought us to the middle of no where. Just walked a little bit toward a field where a small girl standing. She showed us in another direction, but there was no road at all. To go or not to go was the dilemma. Finally trusting our sense of direction we reached another wide open space. Fortunately a bunch of local women standing and chatting. Before we could ask them they showed us in a direction. Amused first only to be realized later it is easy to guess seeing us with cameras hanging around our neck.

We noticed an Archaeological Survey of India's signboard. A narrow pathway surrounded by bushes lead us to the Saat Kabar. The place was totally deserted, giving us the eerie feeling.

Info: Once upon a time lived a commander-in-chief named Afzal Khan. He was married to 60 women. This was in the year 1659 during the realm of Ali Adil Shah II. Bijapur Sultanate was under constant threat by Mughals as well as Marathas. Afzal Khan, the formidable warrior had lead Bijapur army to victory in several battles in the past. He became the de facto leader to take on the Maratha army led by Shivaji in Pratapgarh. It is said all great men have one weakness and his was unwavering faith in astrology. The astrologer predicted his lose and death in the upcoming war.

He didn't want his 60 wives to be remarried again after his death. As sinister as it may sounds he made a decision overnight. He took all his wives to Navarasapura (about that on later) a few kilometers away from Bijapur city. One by one he pushed his wives into a well and drowned them to death. It is said one of the wives tried to escape, but in vain. The commander was gracious enough to built 60 graves for these lovely ladies in a place just a stone throw away from the execution site. He even expressed a desire to be buried next to his wives. Fortunately the astrologer's prophecy turned out to be true and Khan was slayed in the battle. The place where we stand is called the Saat Kabar, the dark tourist spot of Vijayapura.

The story is too disturbing to be true. We counted two times and the total number of graves is exact 60. We have heard about wife beaters, wife abusers, even wife murderers, but Afzal Khan goes down the history as mass murderer of unique nature. We dreaded to think what would have gone through the minds of those slayed women before the killing. We imagined they would turn in their grave precisely every time a visitor hear the tragic story. Afzal Khan's madness is testimony to what happens when power befalls in the wrong hands. Minutes pass in silence, dusk is slowly becoming the night, a small rustle in the bush made us antsy. A hollow sadness started intensifying, before it could engulf us we left the place in a jiffy.

Tips:

Best Time: July-February

Route: Bangalore-Tumkur-Chitradurga-Davangere-Haveri-Hubballi-Bagalkot-Vijayapura

Total Distance from Bangalore: 606 KM

Entry Fee: Free

Timings: Better visit in the day light as there are no lights or guards

-Railway station linked to Bangalore, Hyderabad, and other major cities
-Bijapur is well connected with other cities by bus
-Though we would not advise you can club Bijapur with Badami (Agasthya Tirtha; Cave temple 1; Cave temple 2; Cave temple 3)-Aihole-Pattadakal if time is at premium
-Visit only if the story fascinates you
-Other places to visit in Vijayapura (Bijapur)---Gol Gumbaz, Ibrahim Rouza, Bara Kaman, Navarasapura, Upli Burj, Shivagiri

-Local rickshaws are mode of transport, however, you need to negotiate the prices hard and smart before you could hire one as rickshaws have no meter

Hachi-A Dog's Tale

We had a decent idea about a film being made on "Hachiko" when we visited Tokyo. It is only after we met our friend K, we seriously considered watching it because the first question she asked when she heard about our recent trip to Tokyo was "Have you seen Hachiko"?. Within next few days we did find time to watch Hachi-A Dog's Tale and we were glad to made that trip as well as watching this absolutely brilliant movie.

  

"Hachi is my hero" is the subject chosen by a young boy, Ronnie as a vocal presentation in his class. Ronnie is the grandson of the protagonist, Parker and "Hachi" his dog. Thus begins the tale.

A breed called Akita, born in Japan has been shipped to the United States. The address tag hooked to the wooden crate where the puppy is kept is lost. Now out of the box, the puppy wanders off in the Rhode Island train station. Parker Wilson, a music professor discovers it on a stormy night on the way to his home. Scooping the Akita up in his arms, he goes to the station manager to help him find the owner, but he refuses to the responsibility.  Left with no other choice Parker takes him home much to the dismay of his wife, Cate. Next day at the station, he finds out nobody is looking for the pup and overcrowded animal shelter won't take him either. Convincing his wife it is only a stop-gap arrangement, Parker keeps the dog and names him Hachi. In no time, Professor and puppy develop a strong bond and Cate finally accepts the fact that Hachi is here to stay.

Hachi grows up witnessing Parker's daughter's wedding and birth of his grandson. In this period they fell into a routine that is of Hachi accompanying Professor to the train station every day in the morning to see him off to work and devotedly waiting outside the station to walk him home in the evening.

One day Professor collapses and dies during a class. Unbeknown to it, Hachi waits for him. Professor's daughter's family try to take care of Hachi, but he is not happy and keeps returning to the train station waiting for his master to come. Almost 10 years passes, but Hachi still waits and waits with equal devotion and perseverance until his death.

The last 30 minutes had us broken down completely crying our eyes out. We don't remember any other films having this kind of enormous effect on us. Our heart ached endlessly when we saw Hachi going to the station and waiting for his master until his last breath. It is the tale of dog's pure love unwavering and unfailing to his human companion. It engulfed us in so much sadness and pain. It also depicts the love between spouses, love between father-daughter, and a caring close knit community.

We read afterwards Richard Gere saying "I read the script, cried, and couldn't say no." With his twinkling eyes, easy smile, and humility Gere fits in the character of Parker effortlessly. We knew his part was short lived, but its his picture pops in our mind every time we saw Hachi's longing stares. And he is one of the produces too.

However the real heroes are the three dogs playing Hachi at its dog year. It is spell bounding to see various range of emotions through facial expressions, those puppy dog eyes, and body language (if we may say that to dogs). Hats off to the dog trainer who did an excellent job. The powerhouse performance sure to melt the coldest of hearts.

Based on a true story, Hachi is one of the most cherished love stories in Japanese history. We are at loss for words appreciating the commendable job of director, Lasse Hallstrom and screenplay writer, Stephen Lindsey. we are almost sure we must be the last ones to watch this tearjerker. If not, we would highly recommend this to anyone who would listen to us.