Rameshwara Temple, Keladi

The malnad region of Karnataka, famous for its evergreen deciduous forest had managed to save great architectural work of Hoysala dynasty. Also is the birth place of magnificent dynasty of Keladi Nayakas. Though established in 1499, they ruled as one of the vassals to Vijayanagara Empire at the beginning. However, they declared independence in 1565 after the mighty fall of Vijayanagra Empire at Battle of Talikota. Since then they ruled significant part of Malnad and coastal Karnataka and parts of northern Kerala, Malabar, and central plains along the Tungabhadra River for 200 years.

Keladi Chennamma

From outside Keladi Temple looked like a big, old house with sloping roof typical of Malnadu architecture. Monsoon brings heavy rains in this region; hence the slopping roofs. Those roofs don't let water to accumulate by allowing them to slide off.

Surroundings

Frontal View

Courtyard

The Rameshwara Temple is the main attraction in Keladi; however, temple houses three deities, Lord Rameshwara, Lord Veerabhadra, and Lord Ganesha. As we enter the complex a lady approached us asking whether we would like a guide, the guide being herself. We decline her offer politely and wander off in the corridor trying to capture good shots. The same lady watching us from a distance commands us not to take photographs. There is no notification to suggest photography is prohibited at the entrance. It really annoys us when people try to impose non-existing rules on us. Tarun had to give her an earful about what is allowed and what is not allowed in the historical site maintained by Archaeological Survey of India.

Pravasi Mitra (Karnataka Tourism Department) interrupted the argument and said we can take photos as much as we would like. He guided us through the temple, explaining the important characteristic features. On the ceiling he showed us the picture of Gandaberunda (two-headed mythological bird) believed to possess immense magical strength. It is the official emblem of Karnataka State Government. The temple is built in Hoysal-Dravida style. The pillars and ceilings are decorated with gods and their stories.

Gandaberunda

One can find the statue of Rani Chennamma, along with Rajarama Chatrapati. Rajaram was son of Shivaji who was on the run from Mughal emperor, Aurangzeb. Keladi Chennamma refused to hand over Rajaram to Aurangzeb. Enraged Mughal emperor waged a war against Keladi. Unknown to the Malnadu territory Mughal soldiers couldn't hold the battle for much longer. Chennamma fought without defeat and the fight ended in a treaty. And she was called the pepper queen because she rendered a trade agreement with the Portuguese. 

Rani Chennamma with Rajaram Chatrapathi

Legend: Once upon a time lived (1499-1530) two brothers, Chavuda Gowda and Bhadra Gowda in the village Halebayal in Keladi Taluk. They had two loyal servants, named Yadava and Murari. One day they found out a cow shedding milk over an anthill. They digged deeper and spotted a linga. Their master built a temple for the discovered linga. Some time later the same servants while ploughing the field discovered an old sword. They deposited the sword in the thatch of the house with an intention to make it a tool to use for cutting the crops. Surprisingly whenever a crow sits on the roof the sword jumps in the form of snake, killing the crow instantly. Noticing this Chavuda Gowda kept the sword inside his house securely, naming in Nagaramuri (serpent head). Few days later the same servants unearthned a cauldron containing treasure. The same night Chavuda Gowda had a dream, in which he was asked to offer human sacrifices and take the treasure. Again, the above-said servants volunteered to be that human sacrifices given their oblation and memory will be safeguarded and eternal. Then they were beheaded with the sword of Nagaramuri. With that treasure Gowda brothers raised an army and built their lineage.

Whether really the Yadava and Murari offered themselves to be the scapegoats? Being the servants that they were had any rights to choose back then? The story seemed like an attempt to appease the downtrodden. There were two effigies dedicated to Yadava and Murari.

Yadava and Murari

The museum situated outside the Rameshwara temple houses copper inscriptions, palm leaves, coins and many more interesting antiques of the Keladi period. The guy at the museum told us those two effigies (Murari and Yadava) will go on procession annually during village festival. We thanked the research guy at the museum as he was enthusiastic enough to give us details of Keladi empire, history, and nitty-gritty details.

The Museum

Tips

Route: Bangalore-Tumkur-Tiptur-Arasikere-Kadur-Shimoga-Sagar-Keladi

Nearest Railway station: Shimoga and Sagar

Road: Keladi is well-connected by road. Keladi is located at a distance of 8 Km from the Sagar town on Sorab Road. There are many buses ply from various towns in Karnataka to Sagar.

Entry Fee: None.

Best Time: June-February

Clubbing: Jog Falls, Honnemaradu, Ikkeri, Sigandoor

Place to Stay: Sagara. There are few decent hotels in Sagara.