Golden Triangle III-Belur

Hoysala Symbol

Here we come to the last leg of Golden Triangle. Velapuri is the former name for Belur, that is mere 22 KM from Halebidu. We left off to Belur around 12 p.m. from Halebidu and reached within an hour. Even though it was lunch time, we decided to have it a little later as we had late breakfast in Halebidu. The sun tried maximum to beat us down, however, it was pleasant December afternoon and air was cool and wintry. An ornate gopuram/temple tower welcomed us in to the Chennakeshava temple complex.

Gopuram/Temple Tower

Our knowledge was very limited other than what we studied in history class. The Chennakeshava temple was built to commemorate the victory of Hoysalas over Cholas in the great battle of Talakkad. Originally known as Bitti Deva of Jainism, King Vishnuvardhana converted to Hinduism under the influence of Ramanujacharya, and then famously adopted the name Vishnuvardhana. Vishnuvardhana and his wife Shantala Devi are great patrons of art and architecture. The temple was started in 1116 AD by Vishnuvardhana; furthered by his son, Narasimha Raya; and finished by his grandson, Veera Ballala. It took almost 103 years to complete this building and one will understand nothing less of a century justifies this magnificent architecture.

Courtyard

Chennakeshava Temple

Pushkarini

Mantapa

We overheard unabashedly to a guide explaining everything in detail to another group. We started getting really dirty glances from the people who actually paid for the guide, so we stopped following them. All we could hear while parting was the word Madanikas and 40 something number. We waited for a few minutes for them to go away further and we were off in search of Madanikas.

First we entered the inside of temple. As we said in our earlier post, "Belur Ola Nodu, Halebidu Hora Nodu" (means beauty of Belur lies in inner sanctum and Halebidu outside) and we realized why it is said and how aptly indeed. The navaranga mantapa (hall) has spectacular polished pillars and ceilings. The pillars are of three different sizes and each one is unique. Narasimha pillar and Mohini statues are quite popular here. Narasimha pillar is carved with miniature figures and difficult to miss as it is decked with kumkuma (vermilion) marked by devotees. Do not forget to look up to see the brilliant ornate circle in the ceiling. It is the first and foremost thing to remember while visiting a Hoysala temple. Due to lack of sufficient light, could not get the perfect shot.

Pillars

Ceiling

Highlight of Belur is the Madanikas, celestial nymphs or bracketed figures of dancers, musicians, drummers, instrumentalists, groomers. It is said that Madanikas were inspired by Queen Shantala who is an eminent dancer herself. The most popular is the Darpana Sundari (lady looking into the mirror). Some of them have been disfigured by invaders and miscreants, nonetheless they are the beauties to behold.

Darpana Sundari

Madanikas

Madanikas

Madanikas

Madanikas

Madanikas

Madanikas

Madanikas

Madanikas

Madanikas

Another focal point is the gravity pillar, a unique 42 feet tall lamp post (Karthika Deepotsava Stambha) that stands on its own without any foundation or base, which is why it is called gravity pillar. The temple complex houses Kappe Chennigaraya and Lakshmi Narayana temples. The main temple is surrounded by Soumyanayaki and Ranganayaki, consorts of Chennakeshava.

Gravity Pillar

Kappe Chennigaraya Temple

Lord Krishna & Srimannarayana

We sat there for a very long time as the weather was pleasant and cheerful. How do you appreciate a jewel of wonder wherein each stone sings a melodious tune and each sculpture tells a unique story. The sun was already setting and our stomach started rumbling. We were so hooked up with this majestic beauty that we almost forgot we had skipped the lunch. With a content mind and a heavy heart, we bid adieu to Belur, one of the intricate architectures on earth.

PS: Listen to the beautiful Kannada song "Shilegalu Sangeethava Hadide" from the movie Rathasapthami which pays homage to this temple.

Travel Tip: Hire a guide.  You do not want to run like headless chicken in search of Madanikas as we did.