Sunday 29 May 2016

Golden Triangle II-Halebidu

Hoysaleshwara Temple

Journey through the capital city of Hoysala Dynasty, this  magnificent temple not only stood test of time but also illustrates the distinct Hoysala architecture in all its glory.

The next morning around 8 we were on our way to Halebidu by bus that is 32 KM. The view is what you call journey through the interior part of the state. It took an hour to reach there. When we inquired the receptionist of the hotel we stayed in Hassan, his advice was one should always visit Halebidu first and Belur next.  It was famously said in Kannada "Belur Ola Nodu, Halebidu Hora Nodu" (means beauty of Belur lies in inner sanctum and Halebidu outside).

View on the way
Halebidu or Dwarassmudra was the capital of Hoysala Empire in 12 to 13 century. There is a saying it got its name Halebidu because it was raided and looted two times by Malik Kafur (general of Alauddin Khilji, ruler of Delhi Sultanate). 

Front View of Temple
The temple complex has two temples, Hoysaleshwara and Kedareshwara. The Hoysaleshwara was built during King Vishnuvardhana's period. Two enormous monolith Nandis are inside the mantapas on sides of the temple as it is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The temple has two shrines, one is Hoysaleshwara and another Shantaleshwara. Standing atop a star-like structure or Jagathi is the signature of Hoysala architecture. The exterior facade is breathtaking and it can take hours to days to appreciate the art. The structures of elephants, lions, stories of Ramayana, Mahabharata, dancing nymphs, tidbits of lifestyle are carved out to the perfection. We have not seen this kind of splendid detailing in any other architecture. 

Monolith Nandis

Mantapa & Sanctum Sanctorum

Carvings on outer wall
Kedareshwara was built by Hoysala King Veera Ballala II (King Vishnuvardhana's grandson) dedicated to Lord Shiva. Soap stone was used for the construction as it is norm in Hoysala architecture.  It is advisable to hire a guide, otherwise one could have missed out on many important carvings. Art critic James Fergusson described it as an "outstanding example of Hindu architecture".  The temple complex is protected and maintained by Archaeological Survey of India.

Lord Ganesha
Ugra Narasimha & Mahishasura Mardini
Shiva-Parvathi & Brahma-Saraswathi
Door Keeper & Celestial Nymph
There said to be two Jain Basadi's nearby, but we gave it a miss as our previous day was all about Jain Basadis and Thirthankaras. The complex houses a museum that contains sculpture, photos, maps, etc., from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. The temple has been proposed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and we couldn't stop ourselves from asking why it is still not in the prestigious list.  We were awe-struck by our rich heritage, Halebidu is nothing but a marvel in stone and craftsmen were true geniuses.

Ceilings
Entrance


Tips: Ideal place to stay would be Haasan. From Haasan plenty of buses fly every 10 to 15 minutes.

Route: Bengaluru-Kunigal-Channarayapattana-Hassan-Halebeedu

Distance: 215 KM

1 comment:

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