Agasthya Tirtha-Badami

The republic day this year fell on Thursday. We are as patriotic as it could get, however, didn't want to plonk ourselves in front of television to watch Republic day parade. And visiting UNESCO World Heritage Site is nothing short of nationalism. In fact knowing our country's rich heritage is what every one should be doing if you ask us. Two of the cousins were more than willing to accompany us. We left home at 4 o'clock in the morning with the intention to reach the destination before 12 o'clock with single driver, that is Tarun. Our route of choice is;

Bangalore-Tumkur-Sira-Hiriyur-Chitradurga-Davangere-Harihara-Ranebennur-Haveri-Hubli-Navalgund-Nargund-Badami. The total distance is 510 KM.

Another option was Bangalore-Tumkur-Sira-Hiriyur-Chitradurga-Hospete-Badami. This one is the shortest route of 450 KM among two. We had traveled on this road to visit Hampi last year, and this one is one of the worst roads in Karnataka. And we had taken the first route to Vijayapura (Bijapur) last year, so we are more comfortable on this course despite having to shell out few hundreds for tolls. We passed through barren lands of cotton, maize, sunflower that had seen harvesting just a few days ago. With just breakfast stop and a bio break, we reached out hotel in Badami at 11:30. After having lunch in nearby restaurant, we thought of napping a bit as we need not have to be anywhere till evening.

Our intent was to spend a relaxing evening in Agasthya Tirtha. It was just walkable distance from our hotel. We trudged along few houses where kids asked our names and country. We smiled at them and moved ahead. There is another route for vehicle from station road.  Take a left turn at Ambedkar statue that leads to Badami Cave Temple parking. From there you need to walk a little further to reach Agasthya Tirtha, Bhootnath Temple Complex, Archaeological museum, upper Shivalaya and Lower Shivalaya. We followed this trail next day to visit other places.

Mythology: There lived two demon siblings named, Vatapi and Ilvala in ancient times in forest. They have killed many sages, kings, and common people. Their trick is that, they invite travelers into their house for a meal. Ilvala serves Vatapi as a dish saying this is the goat flesh from sacred fire (Yajna). After guests had eaten, Ilvala will call out "Vatapi, come out!. And Vatapi breaks through the stomach of guests killing them instantly. Later these two will eat the guest. Vatapi is well-versed in the art of transformation and has the power to turn himself into any form; wherein Ilvala knew "Mritasanjivini" Mantra to bring back the dead to life. One day Sage Agasthya was vounteered himself to be the guest who all along knew what these brothers were up to. As expected Agasthya was served Vatapi in a meat form, but before Ilvala could call him back, sage keeps his right hand over his stomach saying "Vatapi Jeernobhava (Vatapi get digested) thus killing him. Now enraged Ilvla tries to kill the sage; however, with the power of his Tapas (penance) Agasthya turns Ilvala into ashes. Thus Agashya ended the plight of people by killing these two demons, bringing peace and happiness.

The Northern and Southern Hills in Badami represents the two demons, Ilvala and Vatapi. And as the name suggests the lake in honour of saint Agasthya. Every South Indians would have heard the song "Vatapi Ganapthim Bhaje" in Carnatic music based on Hamsadhwani. Paramjyothi, commander-in-chief of Pallavas during Narasimhavarma I reign brought the Ganesha idol from Badami after defeating Chalukyas. Now the idol stays in Uthrapathiswaraswamy Temple, Tamil Nadu. Even the town Badami was ealier called as "Vatapi". It is easy to connect all the dots now.  Immadi Pulakeshi shifted his Capital from Pattadakallu in 6th century AD to Badami. Historical records says it was an important commercial center even before that. The Green Geographer Tolemy referred Badami as "Badomoyee" in his book writing in 2nd century AD.

The large emerald green lake is awe-inspiring. Meandering through flight of stairs, we found a perfect place to sit and enjoy the evening pass by. We could see people flocking the Badami caves with gusto especially school children. Locals women were washing clothes in the lake. Our initial thought was how lucky they were to live in this beautiful place. Then reality hit hard, the grass is always greener on the other side. With sun casting its golden rays upon the blue sky, birds started finding their way back home. And it was time for us to move in search of Khara Mandakki (Type of Bhel) and cut chai.

How To Reach:

By Road: Bangalore-Tumkur-Sira-Hiriyur-Chitradurga-Davangere-Harihara-Ranebennur-Haveri-Hubli-Navalgund-Nargund-Badami. The total distance will be 510 KM. Few KSRTC buses ply to Badami from Bangalore. If one misses direct bus, then can alight at nearby cities like Vijayapura, Hubli, Gadaga, Hospete and travel to Badami by bus. Bus Station is in the center of the city, which is walkable distance from all the places of attractions in Badami. 

By Train: Train station is 5 KM from city center. Trains from Bangalore, Bijapur, and other cities stop there regularly.

By Flight: Nearest Airports are Bangalore and Hyderabad.

Where to Stay: Badami offers many budget hotels.

Shivagiri, Vijayapura

Immersing ourselves in Adil Shahi Sultanate's tombs, ruins, mahals, and masjid for two days, spending an evening in Basanta Vana seemed like a good idea. This was going to be the last leg of our Vijayapura trip. Located at a distance of 5 KM from the city on Sindagi road the Shiva statue can be spotted from a distance. Walk through the lush green park lead us to the idol. Sitting cross-legged in yogic posture, Shiva's face radiates love and compassion.

Info: T.K. Patil Banakatti Charitable Trust of Vijayapura (Bijapur) installed this 85 feet tall and 104 feet width statue. The unveiling ceremony was held on February 26, 2006 on the auspicious day of Maha Shivaratri. It bagged the coveted place of third biggest Shiva statue in the country weighing 1500 tonnes. Six master artisans from Shivamogga and hundreds of workers have made this astounding structure possible within a short span of 13 months.
Nothing to be surprised because sculptures from Shivamogga are known for their impeccable carving techniques. The rudrakshi which adorns this statue is about 50 kg each in weight and the serpent swirling around neck is 145 feet in length. It is said Basanth Kumar Patil and brothers created "Word record" by donating 58 kg gold equivalent to their mother, Smt. Tulasibai Patil's weight on the inauguration of Shiva statue.

It is truly a great piece of work. Agreed the idol is massive, but it is the attention to detail that impresses the most. The rudrakshi which adorns this statue is about 50 kg each in weight and the serpent swirling around neck is 145 feet in length. captivates one's gaze. The crescent moon, trident, Damaru, rudrakshi beads, armlet, anklet, serpent, third eye, matted locks, everything is carved into perfection. The idol was made out of cement and concrete. There is a small Shiva Linga below the statue. Many devotees offer pooja with a help of a priest. Mahashivaratri sees a huge influx of devotees as many as two lakhs.

It is pretty evident the place is commercialized as the trust wants to make this a major pilgrimage center. Nonetheless a beautiful evening can be spent here. We saw kids playing in the park in slides, merry-go-round while their parents relaxing on the lawn. Several coconuts were wrapped in colorful clothes were tied to the ring around the base of the statue. It could have been fulfilling a vow (Harake) to God.

Shops around the place sold pooja items, soft-drinks, snacks, artificial jewelry, souvenirs, etc. After having a glass of sugarcane juice we took leave from the place.

Entry Fee: Rs 5
Camera Fee: Rs 5
Parking Fee: 20