Ikkeri is a quaint and small village near Sagara of Shivamogga district. Once it was the second capital of Keladi Nayakas, for 120 years. Some say Chaudappa Nayaka shifted the capital in 1512 for reasons unknown. It is said he built a fort, palace, treasury, elephant stable, etc. None of them are present now but for the Aghoreshwara Temple. And some say this temple was built by his successor Sadashiva Nayaka who was known for his military prowess. It is he who moved the capital from Keladi to Ikkeri. He was a great patron of religious structures and art. Third capital was Nagara (Bidanur) where Shivappa Nayaka ascended to throne and the fourth and final capital was Kaveledurga where Rani Chennamma was coronated. The Ph.D. chap we met at the museum in Keladi gave us the insight about all of this. The uneven terrain of Malnadu helped the Keladi rulers to build a strong fortresses amidst the western ghats.
The very first thing catches the eye is Nandi shrine in the axis of the main temple. Kids were trying to crawl through the space formed by the folded leg of the Nandi. Tarun shared his experience as a kid trying out the same. Now there is a sign board that restricts this misadventure. But who is to stop the enthusiastic kids who were unaccompanied by parents in this tiny space? The statue of Nandi is a brilliant work of architecture, though not as huge as the Nandi of Lepakshi. The detailing is done to perfection and the statue shimmered like glass in the bright afternoon light.
Aghoreshwara temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The architecture was done in Chalukya-Hoysala-Vijayanagara style using granite. The interior and exterior walls and ceilings were well adorned, yet not overly decorated. One could find many erotic figurines on the outer walls. One more peculiar thing about this temple is it does not have a gopura, but a arch, which could be Nayaka's own style of architecture. The bright pink colour hues are another distinct feature we must say. We were curious to know Whether it was a coat of pain or was this stone's original colour. Old Kannada inscriptions also can be found in the temple walls. The temple complex also houses small shrines dedicated to Lord Ganesha, Subrahmanya, Goddess Akhilandeshwari, etc. This temple has pradakshina patha with an antarala.
It is documented Italian traveler Pietro della Valle visited Ikkeri in 1623 during the reign of Hiriya Venkatappa Nayaka. participated in the temple festival in which women danced to the beats of Kolata (a traditional folk dance). Until a decade ago Ikkeri Utsava, a cultural festival was held to celebrate the performing arts and dance forms of India.
The friend who accompanied us was getting restless to get out of here. His explanation was he has seen the temple thousand times before. He was overwhelmed by our energy and tempo. We doubt he is ever going to hang around with us anytime soon. Understanding his plight we resolved to head out from the venue. We saw many non-Hindus appreciate the architecture and beauty of the temple.
Myth: On the outer wall there are two lizards separated by a line and a scorpio. It is said when two lizards touch each other the world comes to an end and the scorpio is there to prevent lizards from doing so. This myth is quite popular among the crowd.
And Ikkeri means two streets in Kannada.
Tips
Route: Bangalore-Tumkur-Tiptur-Arasikere-Kadur-Shimoga-Sagar-Ikkeri
Nearest Railway station: Shimoga and Sagar
Nearest Airport: Mangalore
Road: Ikkeri is well-connected by road. Ikkeri is located at a distance of 6 Km from the Sagara. There are many buses ply from various towns in Karnataka to Sagara.
Entry Fee: None.
Best Time: June-February
Clubbing: Jog Falls, Honnemaradu, Keladi, Sigandoor
Place to Stay: Sagara. There are few decent hotels in Sagara.
