Kbal Spean, Siem Reap

Figuratively known as ‘River of a Thousand Lingas’, Kbal Spean is located in the slopes of Kulen Hills. It is at a good distance of 50 kilometers from Siem Reap province in the northeast direction.

Always two thumb rules apply to our trip; cover the farthest site in the itinerary first and save the best for last. Our tuk-tuk driver was dot on time, waiting for us outside the hotel in the morning. We hired him the previous night after negotiating prices and he would our official driver for our entire stay in Seam Reap. Obtaining the three-day pass was easy as Blak (driver) dropped us just in front of the ticket counter. Kbal Spean comes under the category of outlying temples of Angkor Archaeological Park.

The tropical weather would have tired us completely but for the sun roof of tuk-tuk. Driving through the small villages and country side reminded us of Goa. A bleak, thin wind was blowing incessantly. From Banteay Srei (another site) the drive was a little bumpy and dusty. However, we reached the base within two hours.  A few kids trained in American accent approached us. They tried selling us food, drinks, souvenir, clothes, all and sundry. We moved forward declining them politely.

Kbal Spean river flows silently in the Phnom Kulen National park. It got its name when a local saw a portion of natural boulder lying across the river and resembling that of a bridge.  Kbal Spean means Bridge Head in Khmer. The site was discovered by Jean Boulbet, an ethnologist in 1969. However, ongoing exploration had to be stopped because of the Cambodian Civil War. It was declared a "safe site to visit" only in 1989.

A few women who were sweeping the path gave us the brightest smile and we had to capture them through lenses. They work for APSARA, a government sponsored agency in Cambodia that is responsible for management and protection of Angkor Archaeological Park.

Alighted boulder and crawling vines challenged us to move forward. Hike through the woods was relatively easy. We weren't in hurry either. We trudged slowly, taking breaks here and there.

Info: The carvings in sandstone formation are dates back to 11th to 13th centuries. King Suryavarman I pioneered the work while his son Udayadityavarman II completed it. On the river banks along the basins are the sculptures of Lord Shiva riding Nandi with consort Goddess Parvati; Lord Vishnu in Ananthshaya Asana (recling pose) in the middle of Ksheerasagara (ocean) with Goddess Lakshmi; and Lord Brahma, the god of creation. So, one can see Trimurti, holy trinity of ultimate divinity in Hinduism. Lord Brahma, Lord Vishnu, and Lord Shiva represents creation, maintenance, and destruction respectively.

River is slow-flowing, languid in pace, and lax by nature. The entire river bed is covered with lingas, the symbol of Lord Shiva. Further down along the banks we spotted the white water cascading down the rocky outcrops. A reflective white strip and its cool breeze was like a balm to our tired body. It was a belief that the water will spiritualize passing through these divine sculptures. Kbal Spean creates Russie river, which branches off to form Siem Reap and Pouk rivers.

We met few Tamil Malaysians who came to Siem Reap especially to see Kbal Spean, not the famed Angkor Wat. It was a good interaction of 50 to 60 minutes about India and Malaysia. After that we slowly climbed down to head out to our next spot, Banteay Srei. 

Suggested reading: Sahastralinga tank, Patan and Kotilingeshwara Temple, Kolar Gold Fields