Chandragutti

Chandragutti Temple

When we left Shivamogga (Shimoga) it was exactly 7 o'clock in the morning. It was hot and humid making way for a dreaded summer. The two places we shortlisted for these circuits were Chandragutti and Banavasi. Chandragutti is at 116 KM distance from Shivamogga, just 2 hours drive. Surprisingly it turned out to be a foggy morning.

Foggy Morning

Chandragutti is a famous pilgrimage center where thousands of devotees visit every year. It is just after the popular festival held in the month of March. Chariot was stripped naked. A few stalls opened selling toys, imitation jewelry, religious amulets, etc. A few decorated tractors were parked, which were used by the villagers to reach here for the festival. A group of women huddled together trying to cook a meal. We are unable to fathom whether they are poor or its just their shabby and unkempt appearance that made us to believe so.

Chariot

Shop

Info: Chandragutti (Chandraguptapura) was the fortress of Kadambas of Banavasi in 3rd century A.D. It was under the reign of Vijayanagara king Harihara II (1377-1404) as an inscription dated 1396 mentions about this. A local chieftain named Bachanna ruled for a few years before it came under the control of Keladi Nayakas.

Renukadevi temple is situated atop a hill and accessed through a flight of stairs. Color of the stairs were bright red from scattered kumkuma (vermilion) and arashina (turmeric). We were asked by a man to leave our foot wears here before we could ascend. However, we were reluctant seeing the color and number of steps. It was decided among us that we will walk with foot wears till near the temple. If someone complains, we will take turns visiting the temple. But nobody said anything and we removed them outside the temple in a corner.

View From Afar

Coloured Steps

Lazying Around

Lateral View

Legend: Renuka, wife of sage Jamadagni had the gift to collect water in unbaked pots (even sands) by the power of her chastity. One day while returning home from collecting water, she saw a gandharva (male nature spirit/excellent singers) taking bath in river and she was sexually attracted to him. She immediately lost her magical power because of infidelity. Jamadagni learned about this and ordered his sons to behead her. The eldest four sons refused to budge, however, Parashurama carried out the order without questioning. And he killed his four brothers at his father's command. Now pleased with his son's obedience, Jamadagni asked for a boon and Parashurama asked for his mother and brothers to be brought back to life, which Jamadagni obliged.

In fact, the massive hip-like rocks in the cave are noted as Renuka in hiding when Parashurama pursued her. Outer aspect of cave is in Chalukya style forming the hall. During Vijayanagar time a pillared hall was adjoined. A small shrine is dedicated to Parashurama and Seven headed serpent in front of Renukamba temple. We were able to get a glimpse of main deity during Pooja. Our initial plan was to visit Chandragutti fort too; however, we were told it is 3 KM uphill by trekking. So, we thought maybe we can do it some other time considering we are accompanied by our mother this time. We spent few more minutes discussing the infamous Bettale Seve (Nude Worship) before descending. We could see a small Kalabhairava temple at the foot of Renuka temple.

Front View

Kalasha

Parashurama and Sheshanaga Temple

Matangi?

Nandi

Sign Board???

Sri Kalabairava Shrine

We almost threw up seeing the public toilets. They were filthy beyond anybody's imagination. It is better to pee in your pants rather than using them. First there is huge scarcity in accessing public toilets in India. And availability doesn't guarantee the usability.

Route:

By Road: Bangalore-Tumkur-Tiptur-Arasikere-Kadur-Shimoga-Sorba-Chandragutti.  Chandragutti is well-connected by road.

Nearest train station: Shivamogga.

Nearest Airport-Mangalore

Temple Visiting Hours:

Tuesdays, Fridays, Full moon days, and festival-9:00 AM 7:00 PM

Other Days-9:00 AM to 2:00 PM and 5:00 PM to 7:00 PM